Poha is the cape gooseberry, a tiny, golden ball of distinctive tart, bittersweet goodness. It’s native to Brazil and was introduced to the islands in the 19th century, growing well in tropical climates. Poha grow on a bush, and a single bush can produce an abundance of fruit.

A papery skin surrounds each poha picked from the bush, just like a tomatillo. The waxy skin of the fruit is thin; inside are tiny seeds surrounded by juicy pulp. Because of its piquant flavor, it is an ideal accompaniment to meats, and, of course, it makes an excellent jam.

If you can find poha at a farmers market (there are farmers on Maui and Hawaii who cultivate them), grab them and pop them into your mouth for a mouthwatering treat. Be sure to remove the papery husk and rinse them, too.

Poha are terrific fresh, but if you want to make a jam, just cook it with a little water and add some sugar or honey to sweeten to taste. The berry is watery and doesn’t have much pectin, so it’s not a good candidate for jelly. If you want to use it in a tart, be sure to coat it well with cornstarch so the juices will thicken. Poha ice cream is divine.

Poha freeze well, so keep an eye out for them at farmers markets.

Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.