Wearing a white cap, striped shirt and a quick, infectious smile, chef Chang-Wook Chung looks like a mischievous youth going on 15. But watching him wield a knife to make quick work of slicing mushrooms and peeling araimo (Japanese taro), it’s apparent he’s a seasoned pro in the kitchen.

In fact, in Seoul, where his Bistro Chaugi has made it into the Michelin Guide, Chung, 36, is a star chef who’s recognized wherever he goes. He grew up in Japan, where relatives ran Korean restaurants, and after studying Japanese cuisine and teaching himself French fare, he moved to Korea and opened up shop. Chung is so big in Korea’s culinary world that he was recently tapped to create a menu for Hawaiian Airlines’ Incheon-to- Honolulu route.

His crazy schedule has him craving homey comforts, and this chige, or Korean stew, is something he likes to prepare for himself at home.

“I devised this recipe specifically for a Hawaii audience,” he said, adding that it’s not as spicy as other Korean dishes. “It’s a good alternative to soup.”

But make no mistake: It is spicy — thanks to the inclusion of a good amount of jalapeno chilies — and hearty, with various veggies, thinly sliced beef, tofu and araimo.

The big revelation here is how the simmering affects the heat of the chilies: Rather than the upfront, overwhelming heat that raw chilies produce on the tongue, the cooked version adds a deeper heat to a broth that’s assertive without being overwhelming. It warms the throat and belly in a soothing way and lasts long on the palate without numbing it — all the flavors easily come through.

The stew is served “like a cake,” said Chung, over rice and thinly sliced pork that’s simply pan-fried right before serving. A generous topping of fresh Korean watercress balances out the earthiness and heat. Chung has dubbed this dish “soupless” because its consistency is thick rather than brothy, the way most Korean stews are served.

It’s important to note that Chung calls for Korean miso and Korean sesame oil. He says that, unlike Japan, which offers endless varieties of miso made from various products, Korea has just one type, made of soybeans. It is brown and earthier than most Japanese miso. Korean sesame oil is thicker and nuttier than the Japanese version. It’s the final finish to this delicious dish, drizzled on the fresh greens, adding yet another layor of flavor to the package.

If your pantry isn’t outfitted with these Korean staples, you might think twice about trying this recipe. But they are easy to find at Korean shops such as Palama Market. (A note about the meats: Look for thinly sliced pork and beef suitable for sukiyaki or shabu shabu.)

Here’s my advice: Make the investment and give it a whirl — I don’t think you’ll regret it. In fact, the dish is likely to become part of your meal repertoire. It has become part of mine. My large jar of Korean miso is already half gone.

Soupless Chige (Stew)

• 1 cup dried shiitake that’s been hydrated and sliced, stems discarded and water reserved
• 3 cups water, including some shiitake soaking water, plus more as needed
• 1 onion, coarsely chopped
• 1 zucchini, small dice
• 5 small araimo (Japanese taro), peeled and cut into small chunks
• 4 jalapenos (or chilies of your choice), sliced lengthwise, then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (optional and to taste)
• 1/2 cup crushed garlic, cloves chopped into thirds
• 4 teaspoons oil, divided
• 3/4 pound thinly sliced beef, sliced crosswise
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 3/4 cup Korean miso, or to taste
• 1 block firm tofu
• 4 small red bell peppers
• 3 pounds thinly sliced pork, sliced in half
• Steamed rice, for serving
• 1 bunch seri (Korean watercress)
• Korean sesame oil, for drizzling

In 3 cups water (including reserved shiitake water), cook mushrooms, onions, zucchini, araimo, jalapeno and all but 2 cloves of the garlic. Simmer about 20 minutes, until vegetables are soft.

In pan, heat 2 teaspoons oil. Season beef with salt and pepper, then saute in pan until par-cooked. Add beef to pot. Skim broth.

Add miso to pot and stir. Using hands, squeeze block of tofu into small pieces over pot, adding entire block to pot. Cook until liquid reduces to thick consistency of curry.

Add bell peppers and cook a few minutes until soft.

In pan, heat remaining oil, then add remaining garlic. Season pork with salt and pepper, and add to pan to cook thoroughly. Remove from pan and set aside.

Serve with rice. Layer pork over rice, spoon chige over pork, top with small handful of seri and drizzle with sesame oil. Serves 10.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including rice or drizzle of sesame oil): 430 calories, 21 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 900 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 44 g protein

Is there a cooking technique you’d like explained? Email food editor Joleen Oshiro, joshiro@staradvertiser.com. Nutritonal analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.