Las Vegas may be Hawaii residents’ favorite destination by far, but if you’re looking for a cooler destination, think Alaska.
There is a lot of travel between Alaska and Hawaii, much of it by Alaska residents coming to Hawaii in the winter, with some locals going to Alaska in the summer to take a cruise or fish. My wife, Margaret, and I have enjoyed both but most of our recent trips have revolved around fishing.
Although all of Alaska is beautiful, my favorite part is the southeast, referred to as the Alaskan Panhandle. The Inland Passage runs though the middle of the panhandle; towns along it include Sitka, Skagway, Haines, Juneau (Alaska’s capital), Petersburg, Wrangell and Ketchikan.
Sitka is the town that keeps calling us back.
Sitka sits on Baranof Island, fronting the Gulf of Alaska. It has been home to the indigenous Tlingit people for about 10,000 years. When the Russians showed up in 1799 to start a trading post for a Russian-American company, the Tlingits destroyed their settlement and killed most of the settlers. The Russians returned in greater numbers in 1804.
The United States bought Sitka — along with the rest of the state — in the Alaska purchase of 1867. Today you can still see evidence of the Russian era in many of the town’s buildings. The Cathedral of Saint Michael was built in 1848 and stands in the center of Sitka. The interior of the church is one of the most beautiful I have seen, full of Russian art and golden icons.
IF YOU GO: SITKA, ALASKA
>> Getting there: Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522) is the best choice from Hawaii. Most airlines connect through Seattle but a few go through Anchorage. The Alaska Marine Ferry (800-642-0066) from Bellingham, Wash., to Sitka is another option, but it took four days, and the food was lackluster.
>> Where to stay: • Sitka Hotel: 907-747-3288, info@sitkahotel.com • Longliner Lodge: 907-747-7910, info@longlinersitka.com • Talon Lodge & Spa: 800-536-1864, info@talonlodge.com
From the church, it’s about a half mile hike to Sitka National Historical Park, home to about 20 totem poles scattered on trails through the woods and by the sea. Sitka has the distinction of being the largest city in the United States, with its municipal boundaries covering 2,870 square miles despite having a population of only 8,900.
If you find a cruise that stops in Sitka, a fishing trip will likely be an option, and you can combine Hawaii residents’ two favorite pastimes there. On eight trips to the town, the fishing has never failed us.
The Sitka Hotel and the Longliner Lodge & Suites are great options, with fishing charters available.
The centrally located Sitka Hotel is old but has been recently remodeled, and it has a good restaurant on the property. It’s a great choice for those traveling on a budget.
The Longliner sits on Sitka Harbor, affording all the suites an interesting view of marine traffic. The lodge also has a small but great restaurant.
But the place we keep returning to is the Talon Lodge & Spa. Set on a private island in the Sitka Sound, about a 15-minute boat ride from the town, the lodge can accommodate 18 to 24 guests in wooden cabins of various sizes and a three-bedroom waterfront house. It is consistently ranked the top lodge in Sitka, sometimes in the whole state. Location is definitely a big part of that.
With all the waterways and islands surrounding the hotel, visitors can always fine a calm place to fish. Since opening 15 years ago, they have never had to cancel a day of fishing.
The lodge also offers four-wheel-drive vehicle tours of Kruzof Island, where bears and long beaches delight visitors.
Talon Lodge prides itself on an exceptional food and wine program. The lodge brings in winemakers and guest chefs, including chef Sam Choy, for four-night events several times each summer. Check the lodge website attalonlodge.com to see what events are coming up.
On a trip this August, the fish were plentiful. Early summer tends to be best for catching king salmon, with silver salmon showing up in late summer. The first day of fishing, my wife and I each hit the limit of six silver salmon. (Fishing limits change from year to year.) The second and third days we targeted halibut and caught the limit of two each day, then picked up more salmon and rockfish.
Talon Lodge, the Longliner and Sitka Hotel all arrange for your catch to be flash frozen, packed in coolers and delivered to the airport, or you can request that your fish be prepared for dinner. We have done that a few times.
Altogether, our trips in Sitka include lots of fish, fantastic food and a beautiful place to stay.
What more can you ask for from a vacation?
