The old showbiz maxim, “Leave them wanting more,” as a way of generating repeat views and visits, doesn’t usually apply to the restaurant industry, for obvious reasons. Restaurateurs want guests to leave sated and happy. From time to time I hear a horror story from guests who leave a restaurant hungry and must stop at a fast-food drive-through en route home.

At Bozu, upstairs at McCully Shopping Center, it’s a different story. I definitely leave full, but I always want more. In a good way. Once an entire order has arrived and promptly been tucked into happy bellies, there’s always the question floating around, “Shall we get something else?”

The menu is just too vast to explore in a few sittings, and with each pleasant gem of a dish, you’re wondering what treasures you have yet to discover. If you have any problems with willpower, you will be tested. At this izakaya, you’re driven by sushi-bar impulses, as you won’t want the stream of little morsels to end.

Chef/owner Hoshi Katsu, who worked at Imanas Tei before striking out on his own, may still be the hardest worker on the line. He says the pace is slower here, but the stresses greater with “businessman” added to his metier.

Whatever your comfort level, you’ll find something to love here. Selections range from tame nigiri sushi and grilled chicken wings, to the more challenging ika shiokara (fermented squid gut) pasta ($14.50) and stewed beef intestines ($6). Portions are small, geared toward grazers who want to try as much as possible.

The menu is augmented daily by a full page of about 20 specials based on what’s available. Recent selections included Hokkaido live octopus sashimi ($16.50); “Morokai” (Molokai) sweet shrimp (three pieces of sashimi for $16.50); aku, rather than the more ubiquitous ahi, tataki ($15.50); and moi shioyaki ($21.50).

The best place to start on a hot summer day is with the cold chawanmushi ($7.50), a chilled glass of savory goodness, the light egg custard topped with ikura, crabmeat and bits of shiso leaf. The bursts of saltiness from the salmon roe are enough to flavor the entire dish. The portion is just enough to bring a fresh taste of summer and the ocean, while leaving you wanting more.

Another refresher is a riceless cucumber-wrap sushi roll ($15.50), with ahi, yellowtail, salmon, white fish, crab and avocado filling the center of a healthful, crunchy, thin-shaved length of cucumber.

One unusual option for a Japanese restaurant is chicken liver mousse ($9.50), served with French bread. It was so good, we were clamoring for more bread to finish the dish.

Also not to be missed is the yam and sea urchin beef roll, at $15.75 for three pieces. The beef is chewier than it should be, but the combination is pure luxe, with the lush beef and uni meeting the crunch of mountain potato and accents of wasabi and shiso.

Bozu’s original tangy potato salad ($6.50), with bits of bacon, is a wonderful accompaniment to any order, and those who prefer french fries will find them on the menu as fried potatoes ($7) sprinkled with anchovy sauce. I happen to like fish sauce so I loved the fries. If you don’t, you could ask to skip the sauce.

Tsukune here are not little meatballs but thick 3-inch patties at $4 apiece, prepared tare or shio style, with a shoyu-based sauce or salt. Inside each patty is a small dice of lotus root that adds interest to the texture, but all the flavor is on the outside, with the sauce or salt.

I appreciated the opportunity to sample pork three ways, in the form of heart kushiyaki and cheek kushiyaki, grilled on skewers at $3.50 per stick, and juicy slices of grilled black pork ($8). I could not get enough of the latter.

There’s a fresh vibrancy to the food here, with a light touch to sauces, or only tare and shio to season. This might be part of the reason I can eat so much and not feel overly stuffed or lethargic. The heaviest it gets is Bozu’s Chinese-influenced karaage-style chicken, stir-fried with eggplant in a thick sweet-sour sauce. Crunchy slices of zucchini were the best part of this dish.

The food is meant to be enjoyed with wine or sake, particularly Asahi Shuzo Dassai Junmai Daiginjo 39, at $28.50 per bottle.

End the evening on another refreshing note with cool, light, pineapple panna cotta ($7). Soy bean pudding ($5.50) also makes an interesting choice texturally, with the soy milk pudding topping a layer of crushed edamame.

This is a place I can’t wait to return to. There is so much more to try, such as Big Island abalone with garlic butter ($18.50), 10-piece chirashi ($32.50) and lobster tempura ($25.50).

Nadine Kam Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com. For more photos from this week’s restaurant go to takeabite.staradvertiserblogs.com