Fall is here, not necessarily in temperature, but in the malls, where summer’s boho looks have given way to clean, classic cuts that are laying some new ground rules for dressing beyond a single season.
Fashion’s “rules” are always a moving target, and one that has been drummed into women over time is to lay off stodgy “matchy-matchy” dressing in suiting and accessory choices.
Years of liberating casual dressing that led to an overall sloppiness are being whisked away by the downturn in the economy, where the spoils go to those who can look poised, polished and confident in a job interview. For women, that means a return to refined dressing, which should quiet all those who’ve complained designers and retailers offer them nothing serious for their work lives.
Dressing on point has never been easier. Just ask yourself, “What would Kate — as in Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge — wear?”
“Making an effort never looked so right or so good,” Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said in an email interview last week from Los Angeles, where he was attending preseason events. “Dressed up is the new cool. Dressing down is old school.
“‘Mad Men,’ Kate Middleton and our nostalgia for the past are all having an enormous influence on the return to ladylike dressing. Polite, polished and sophisticated looks ruled the fall runways, and ensemble dressing is the news. Matched looks look right,” he said.
Middleton, through her youth and sleek, chic sense of style, makes matching look beautiful and sophisticated, enough so to land her a prince, after all. No doubt a little wishful thinking will go into every purchase of a ladylike blouse and frame purse.
Lest you find this a bit staid, capes add drama as an outerwear option, and it’s the one item most women don’t have in their closets.
Here are some of the major women’s trends for fall as described by the fashion experts at NM, Nordstrom and Macy’s:
Classic lady: Build your wardrobe with sophisticated and timeless pieces that include menswear-inspired jackets, A-line and thigh-hugging pencil skirts, feminine and romantic blouses and fluid trousers. Understated luxury is exemplified by rich autumn shades, plaids, menswear fabrics and leather.
Frame bag: Would a sophisticated woman carry a slouchy bag? Of course not. Hand-held frame purses harken to a slower, elegant time without iPhones and techno gear that call for more utilitarian solutions. Don’t worry, you can still keep your hands free with long straps to accommodate a modern woman’s needs.
1970s redux: Miniskirts are giving way to midi lengths and flared pants. Think of Sonny Bono-era Cher or Rachel Zoe in adding a glamorous faux fur vest or chubby to your outfit. Color-blocking embraces a range of hues in a graphic display.
Caped crusader: Unless you’re a vintage enthusiast, you probably don’t have one of these in your closet. The cape is the new alternative to a jacket or sweater, and you’ll find them in shoulder to knee lengths, in materials from wool to leather to fur.
Fur: Fur shows up everywhere, from handbags to vests to cardigan collars, as well as outerwear. Love of this texture isn’t going away, and as a result, more designers are embracing nonanimal alternatives that are becoming more realistic every season. The fabulous fakes can mimic animal patterns or just add a splash of fun color to the season.
Wide-leg trouser: The fluid pant reintroduces figure-flattering elegance when paired with soft, feminine blouses and waist-defining slim-fit knits. Top with a long cardigan or menswear-inspired jacket.
Strong footwear: Ladylike pumps are a season classic to go with fall’s chic sheaths and suits. For other looks, from denim to maxidresses and winter shorts, the menswear influence is strong, from high-heeled loafers, to lace-up Oxfords, motorcycle and military-inspired styles. Also ruling the season are boots in every dimension, including knee-high lengths adding height and drama.
Season’s shine: You can’t get this close to the holidays without a touch of shine, which emanates from the subtle shimmer of Lurex knits (for men and women), lamé fabric, muted sequins and glossy paillettes. A lady wouldn’t overdo it, so look for paillettes in small doses, such as around a Peter Pan collar or at the shoulders. With Wall Street banking on precious gold, the metal in 14- to 22-karat or similar metallic finishes returns to jewelry boxes and as accessory accents.
Collector jewelry: The romance with nostalgia carries over to accessories including charm bracelets, pocket watches and lockets that look as if you’ve raided your grandparents’ or great-grandparents’ jewelry boxes and dresser drawers.
Layered leg: If you’re going short, keep your legs covered in stylish leggings, tights and demure-looking socks. Prada trumps all with a trompe l’oeil boot that mimics the look of a shoe worn with knee-high socks.
For a video and breakdown of elements on retailers’ must-have lists, visit my Fashion Tribe blog.
