Hawaii has long been known as the “melting pot” for famously mixing a diversity of ethnicities into its societal stew. So perhaps it wasn’t so surprising when two decades ago, 12 up-andcoming local chefs came together to create what’s known today as Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC).
What has been the happy surprise, though, is the powerhouse brand that’s been created for the state. With HRC marking its 20th anniversary with Sept. 19 induction of the founding 12 into the Hawaii Restaurant Association’s Hall of Fame, it is time for renewed energy to keep that brand competitive for Hawaii’s economic good.
At its heart and simplest, it’s homegrown hospitality. But as an industry, HRC has grown into a nationally recognized niche, one that has nurtured offshoot movements of its own: farm-totable crops for eateries, farmers markets and culinary arts education.
Twenty years ago, 12 chefs gathered in a Maui hotel to brainstorm, with the goal of promoting Hawaii-grown flavors and just as importantly, Hawaiigrown produce. They were: Sam Choy, Roger Dikon, Mark Ellman, Amy Ferguson, Beverly Gannon, JeanMarie Josselin, George Mavrothalassitis, Peter Merriman, Philippe Padovani, Gary Strehl, Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi.
The HRC concept grew into a key component of Hawaii’s food and beverage industry, which is itself a driving force in the state’s crucial hospitality market. According to the Hawaii Restaurant Association, local restaurants are projected to ring up $3.4 billion in sales this year.
The impact of HRC is most evident in the restaurants and their dishes, but the trickle-down growth areas have been fascinating to watch — and cheer on.
On the academic level, there’s been a boon in culinar y arts careers. The University of Hawaii’s Culinary Institute of the Pacific comprises seven culinary centers on Oahu, Maui, Hawaii and Kauai. With its flagship program at Kapiolani Community College, the institute blends Asia-Pacific techniques and influences with classical styles of EuroAmerican regional cuisine.
The growth of foodie media, such as cable’s The Food Network and Bravo’s “Top Chef,” have also helped market Hawaii’s destination profile, with tantalizing experiences enjoyed at venues such as Roy’s, Merriman’s, Mavro’s and Alan Wong’s.
Sustainable agriculture is an integral component of HRC, and establishing that strong link has created dynamic growth in farmers markets. Chefrestaurateur Mavrothalassitis once recounted that before the HRC movement, most restaurants here imported their ingredients, such as California produce and Mexican frozen mahimahi.
But increasingly, it should be: Buy local. Sell local. Eat local. It’s important to the more than 3,500 restaurants in Hawaii that employ some 82,000 people, as well as to the myriad farmers growing produce. The challenge going forward is for future generations to push it even further, to celebrate our self-sustainability to the point where it becomes the norm, not the exception, and to raise the profile of locally grown products far and wide.