The opening of Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, brings a couple of more dining options to the Leeward coast, which is great news for west siders looking for another weekend or special-occasion spot. But east siders might as well stay put. Their contemporary restaurant ‘Ama‘Ama offers little we don’t already see in Waikiki, and for the cost of a treacly dinner and the drive over, I’d just as soon fly to another island.

Then again, this is Disney, so perhaps saccharine fare suits its guests and fans to a tee. Disney fans like candy-colored fantasy worlds in which everyone can be a princess and fairies fix all ills.

I am so not a Disney girl. That doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate fantasy worlds now and then, and in that, Aulani is an amazing playground for little ones and families. Disney has done its best to create a Hawaii experience for guests through art and music, with all the over-the-top enthusiasm they could muster.

The same applies to the restaurant. Let’s not forget the resort isn’t intended to impress the natives, but to appeal to its Vacation Club Resort members around the world, their tastes and expectations.

ʻAmaʻAma is named after the mullet, paying tribute to Leeward coast fishing settlements dating back to the 12th century. Toward raising awareness of this history and ancient practices, the resort is doing its part for sustainability, offering the day’s sustainable catch at ‘Ama‘Ama and through its Makahiki — The Bounty of the Islands buffet restaurant. Servers are happy to talk at length about any of the offerings, eager to share island culture with visitors.

The open-air restaurant opens to the Pacific, with one thing few Oahu restaurants can boast: an unobstructed view of the sunset. Although the setting is casual, there is a dress code that prohibits tank tops and, for whatever reason, men’s hats.

Lunch at ‘Ama‘Ama is straightforward, with starters, sandwiches and salads emphasizing island produce. Putting myself in a visitor’s shoes, I might have been wowed by an Angus chuck burger with avocado and Maui onion-tomato jam ($17) or kalua pig pulled pork sandwich in a Chinese-style steamed bun ($14), but they lacked wow factor. The pork was clean, elegant and lean, which I liked, but at the same time, it’s less like the kalua we know and love without its salty, smoky character. To spice things up, each of a trio of buns was topped with kim chee or pickled vegetables, but these did not compensate.

Dinner started with a tricolor bread accompanied by butter and red alae and black Molokai salt, adding more local color to the table.

Havingtried the kalua pig earlier, I passed on a starter of kalua pig rilletes ($16), served with manchego croquettes and Romesco sauce, opting for a beautiful Hamakua mushroom tart ($16), stacked with plenty of the fungi, along with baby arugula, coriander crème fraîche and Parmesan. Out of everything ordered, it was the best I tried, along with sides of asparagus gratin ($8) and some amazing souffle potatoes ($8). I had expected mashed potatoes, but paired slices of potatoes seemed to be sealed together then deep-fried so they puffed up like balloons and came arranged like mussels in a pot.

I would have also liked to try the Manila clams with smoked pork belly, lemongrass and Espelette pepper ($16), Kahuku corn chowder with taro and lomi salmon ($12), Hawaiian apple banana and Maui onion soup ($12).

Likewise the salt-crusted sustainable catch (market price), which happened to be kampachi. But an island seafood stew ($39) with vadouvan, a French curry, beckoned. As much as curry tends to overpower foods, it was mild enough to allow the flavors of the scallops, mussels, opah and shrimp on the plate to cut through.

The thick scallop could have been cooked a little longer. I hate when shellfish is overcooked, but it’s as if the kitchen was so worried about this happening that undercooking was a problem. In a dish of grilled jumbo shrimp with hearts of palm ($18), two were like sashimi. On top of that the "hearts of palm" amounted to one shaving, and the blanket of sweet barbecue sauce on the shrimp was overkill.

Also lacking nuance was the paniolo rack of lamb ($53), perfectly cooked but lacquered in sauce and accompanied by more candy-like pineapple, mango and poha berry chutney.

After that I didn’t need dessert, but tried the lilikoi mousse meringue ($10) anyway, a glossy dome, true to the sweet-sour fruit, with a slice of caramelized banana on the side.

Service is still awkward, but it’s early and no doubt they’ll improve. On my first visit, they got my order wrong, then charged me for an extra entree. On visit two, servers fussed with lights at outside tables at guests’ expense. The lights should have been in place before the restaurant opened.

Other options

Makahiki — The Bounty of the Islands: Casual dinner buffet offers sustainable seafood, carving stations, Asian-inspired entrees and more from 5 to 10 p.m. daily. Disney characters interact with guests during "Aunty’s Breakfast Celebration," from 7 to 11 a.m. Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.

The Olelo Room: Bar & Lounge: Open for light continental breakfasts from 6 to 10 a.m., and 5 to 11 p.m. for wine, cocktails and spirits.

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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.