Ariel’s homecoming tastes of satisfaction

Hawaii’s home-grown culinary talent continues to shine not just in the isles, but nationally as well. Chef Steven Ariel is testament to that fact, and he shared his experiences with students recently while on a working visit home.

"Twenty years ago I was in culinary school here, just like you," said Ariel as he addressed 100 culinary students recently at the Mauna Kea Beach Resort on Hawaii island.

Ariel, chef de cuisine for LUC in Seattle, was the featured guest chef at a cooking demonstration for West Hawaii Community College and Hawaii Community College students sponsored by the Hawaii Culinary Education Foundation.

Born in Honolulu, Ariel grew up in Kona and has been working in the industry for 24 years.

"I was driven into the industry by money," said Ariel. "I was pumping gas but learned I could make more money washing dishes. Then I learned I could earn more by being a prep cook, and I slowly moved up the ladder."

While in high school he "reached a plateau" and knew he had to go to school to move ahead. Ariel received his two-year culinary degree from West Hawaii Community College then went on to work in various hotels in Kona.

It was at Le Soleil at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows that he met Hawaii Regional Cuisine chef Alan Wong.

"Alan opened my eyes to food," said Ariel, who worked with Wong at the Canoe House at Mauna Lani, then helped to open Alan Wong’s Restaurant in 1995 and the Pineapple Room in 1999, both in Honolulu.

"I was able to travel to the mainland and Asia, and I gained a good understanding of ingredients and how to use them. And I was fortunate to be part of the development of Hawaii Regional Cuisine."

Ariel relocated to the Seattle area in 2005 and became the executive sous-chef at the iconic Canlis Restaurant. In 2009 he joined Café Juanita, focusing on northern Italian cuisine, and recently moved to Luc, Thierry Rautureau’s French bistro.

"Moving away has taught me about the seasons," he explained. "In the Northwest there are tomatoes and figs in the summer, berries in the summer that you dry to serve in the winter, Meyer lemons that you preserve, salmon from different rivers, chanterelles in the fall, root vegetables in the winter.

"I plan menus and food buying around the cycles of the region. It challenges a chef to be creative with the products you have."

While demonstrating the preparation of a fresh tomato and bread soup, grilled octopus with harissa, and salmon with porcini mushrooms and fig sauce, Ariel was peppered with a range of questions from his audience.

He spoke candidly about being a professional chef: "In a small restaurant you need to be flexible, have a wide range of skills and be able to handle multiple tasks," he said.

"Pick and choose where you want to be, work for people who will inspire you. Love what you do," he also advised.

Ariel is walking his talk.

"When people eat something I’ve prepared and enjoy it, I’m happy. Sharing food is satisfying for me as a chef."