Just like the Italians, the Japanese had their own “pasta” tradition, though with noodles more likely to be paired with seaweed and negi rather than tomatoes and basil. Who would have believed more than 20 years ago that combining both styles would result in a harmonious mixed marriage?
The first proponents of this combo came to town from Japan in the early 1990s, with timid dishes that were still more Japanese than Italian. But over the years, Japanese restaurateurs have pretty much perfected the formula. In recent years we’ve witnessed the success of this combo on the high end, at restaurants including Arancino, Taormina and Bernini, but it’s come back to the family level with Happy Valley Pasta & Pizza, where pastas range from $9.98 to $16.98 rather than $16 to $27.
The new restaurant is in the space that was home to Tavola Tavola, next to South Shore Grill. The layout is the same, with streetfront doors opening to the bar and lounge area, and the main dining room a step down in the back, though white tablecloths denoting a certain level of luxury have given way to red-and-white checked and plasticized coverings.
Diners have gotten the message. On a weekend you’ll see dozens of families with their well-behaved kids in tow, giving mom or dad a break from kitchen duty. It works for all. Kids who fear strangeness will find comfort in basic spaghetti and meatballs, the meatballs spiked with enough grated carrot to impart their flavor without being so noticeable to young ones that they refuse this “hidden” intrusion of vegetables.
Adults who likewise fear strangeness will find solace in tomato-based Hawaiian sausage and seafood pastas or pizzas, while those who want something a little different will find it in pasta stirred with calamari and cod roe cream ($14.98) or a pizza of bacon, potato and corn ($10.98), the potato represented by french fries.
I don’t know who was the mastermind who thought of casting french fries on a pizza, but for some reason it works in the same way that it works to throw cheese on fries and set them under a broiler until the cheese melts. The tomato sauce also works like ketchup. Eat them with the crust or individually if you prefer.
THE MENU opens with heavy appetizers of focaccia ($1.98 plain or $2.98 with cheese), karaage chicken and french fries ($6.98), sausage and fries ($6.98), fried calamari and fries ($7.98) or a combo of all the deep-fried offerings ($10.98). You can skip these if you’re having any of the pastas because these are generous and filling. If you’re not a fan of leftovers, consider sharing, unless you get the pasta with meatballs. You’ll want every bite of the three meatballs on the plate.
If you want to add a bit of green to your diet, there are small (single-helping) and regular (share) portions of Caesar salads, whether you like it plain, with chicken, gorgonzola or both chicken and gorgonzola ($3.98 to $10.98). There is also a light, homemade minestrone ($3.98).
Pastas come with tomato, cream, oil sauce or Japanese-style options. You also have a choice of spaghetti or penne, and your server will be able to recommend which works best for the various sauces. For a Japanese-style offering of karaage and basil pesto ($9.98), our waiter recommended spaghetti, which was nicely coated with pesto, tossed with the deep-fried chicken fingers, broccoli and a few slices of mushrooms, and sprinkled with slivers of nori.
Most intriguing to me was the offering of onsen egg with a pasta of teriyaki meatballs ($10.98) and bacon carbonara ($11.98). Like humans basking in hot springs, the eggs are coddled or poached in water just below boiling point, so they ooze over the rest of the dish.
Cream sauce here is milky white and thin. It picks up a slight pink tinge when combined with a bit of tomato in pasta with seafood and tomato cream ($16.98). If it’s too plain, there are red chili pepper flakes at the table for adding at will. You can try asking for Parmesan cheese as well.
As for pizza, there’s a basic Margherita ($9.98), vegetarian ($11.98) and “Meat Meat Meat” combo of sausage, chicken and bacon ($11.98). The Happy Valley Mix ($16.98) combines seafood, meat and vegetables.
There are also cream- and oil-base pizzas, the most novel being a “Cheese Cheese Cheese and Honey” combo ($10.98). The three cheeses referred to are mozarella, Parmesan and gorgonzola; a brush of honey adds a light touch of sweetness to all. Those who can stomach the little bit of blue cheese are going to love this one.
After all the excitement of the pizzas and pastas, sausage and minestrone, risotto ($9.98) failed to generate much enthusiasm. Maybe one of the creamier selections might have fared better.
Save room for panna cotta ($5.98) or tiramisu ($6.98) if you can. I couldn’t.
Already, crowds tend to overwhelm the small, inexperienced wait staff.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
