I often find my enthusiasm for local restaurants wanes in light of my experiences in other cities, as well as reading about menus elsewhere, like Boulud Sud’s in New York City, with its octopus in marcona-almond purée and kibbeh (lamb meatballs) with feta and pine nuts. It’s hard to feel any excitement about biting into the umpteenth spring roll or piece of teriyaki.
Last year, restaurateurs from Japan saved me from boredom, and with little but food trucks still looming large due to the economy, I hope the Japanese don’t lose their enthusiasm for Hawaii. If we can’t travel there, bringing their restaurants here is the next best thing.
One of the latest is Yakitori Glad, part of a Japanese chain. On the back of the menu, Glad Hawaii President Kenji Matsumoto tells of visiting Hawaii on his honeymoon more than 18 years ago and dreaming of one day living here. Over time, the yakitori shop owner learned he had cancer and was given two months to live. After surviving three surgeries, he decided to start his second life here. Hence, his ambition is to generate a roomful of smiles and make everyone glad to stop in.
His enthusiasm must be catching because the staff seems more exuberant with their "irasshaimase" greetings than at any other restaurant. They’re just as energetic when you leave, going as far as following customers onto the street with their goodbyes, "arigatos" and please come agains.
I dropped into this restaurant on its opening day, Jan. 22, figuring it’s difficult to go wrong with yakitori. The eve of the Lunar New Year wasn’t supposed to be auspicious for an opening, but, hey, the Japanese follow the Gregorian calendar, and I believe they’ll do just fine.
I had intended to visit another newbie a block down, but sometimes those recessive caveman impulses kick in and all you can think is, "Fire! Meat! Meat! Fire! Yeah!"
In addition to the simple format of chicken on sticks, the pricing system is equally easy to follow. Each dish is $3.90, so if you can add and multiply (even while drinking), you’ll always know where you stand. Even the drinks are $3.90, which is great if you’re a beer or sake drinker. Not so much if your preference is soft drinks.
A short list of starters whets the appetite, including ahi poke, edamame, tofu with soy or ponzu sauce, kim chee and takowasa, chopped bits of octopus in a light wasabi sauce. With the $3.90 price in mind, there’s more value in the fish dishes than kim chee dished out free in Korean restaurants.
A trio of salads balances the carnivore choices, from a basic Caesar to greens topped with asparagus, onion and tomatoes, or tofu and bacon.
Then comes the main attraction. This being a yakitori restaurant, you’ll get chicken, chicken and more chicken, whether in the form of deep-fried salted chicken skin; barbecued chicken hearts, gizzards and liver (kimo-tare); or fried karaage.
The house specials are the Momo Glad-yaki, barbecue chicken thighs in a choice of barbecue sauce, shio (salt) or spiced styles; and Mune Glad-yaki, barbecue chicken breasts with the same sauce choices. An order comprises two skewers, the chicken pieces interspersed with sections of Tokyo negi, which is like a mega green onion. I’m guessing that most people will gravitate to the juicier, more flavorful thighs. The breast pieces seemed bland in comparison.
I found the tsukune-tare — chicken meatballs —a little disappointing, not plump and juicy as I expected, but flat, lean and dry, and even a layer of melty Swiss cheese on the tsukune cheese version couldn’t save them.
The ground chicken served in green bell pepper suffered the same dry fate, but the crunch and juiciness of the grilled pepper was a saving grace in the pi-man nikuzume. Similarly, the crunch of renkon, or sliced lotus root, saved the mash of ground chicken on top.
A little more variety comes with barbecue chicken thigh pieces topped with curry, as well as a single barbecue beef offering and buta-bara (barbecued pork). The beef was excellent; the pork I received comprised more fat than meat. You might have the luck of the draw.
Finally, there are bowl options ranging from yakitori don to chicken and rice soup. I tried the rice soup with salmon. There was little evidence of salmon to be found in the bowl, just a few orange flakes here and there, but the fish flavor came through in the broth and I loved the warm, comforting nature of this dish.
Service was quick and cheerful, and they don’t waste a beat, not even when running your credit card, which they can now do at the table with handheld card readers. I also liked that they had just about one employee for every two customers, a very Japanese way of doing business, providing a socially responsible mix of jobs and customer service. They set an example that should be emulated.
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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
