A new Nico’s

When in the course of a week, three people ask, "Hey, have you been to the new Nico’s?" you know you’d better get there pronto. Naturally, a hundred other people have the same idea, so you have a clue what proprietor Nico Chaize is up against. There are high expectations and growing pains, plus quality-control issues that go with the territory when you’re now feeding four times as many people.

Compared with Nico’s humble beginnings as, essentially, a takeout lunch spot, the glossy new quarters just around the corner from his former site at Pier 38 are a dream come true, with a full central bar to accommodate pau hana whims, and plenty of seating (though still not enough to match the sizable crowd), all without losing sight of one of the reasons Nico’s has always been popular: the townside, oceanfront location.

The building was constructed to make the most of the setting, with immense windows open to the ocean. Sure, it’s more working harbor than beach, with asphalt in between you and the view, but for office denizens this is as close as we ever get to the water, and it’s great when we can take advantage of one of the reasons we live here in the first place.

On the downside, growth typically involves a trade-off of a certain amount of laid-back charm for the ability to accommodate more people in a more impersonal setting. Where lunch once seemed like a leisurely affair, lines and a packed house give the feeling of being rushed and stressed. It’s best suited for those who thrive on the noise and energy of a crowd there for cas­ual fare, with most dishes still priced at less than $10. Some people even consider it romantic, as I overheard one woman telling another that her dinner there last weekend was an early Valentine. Different strokes.

Adding to the volume is the presence of musicians performing day and night. Not everyone might care for the types of music — anything from traditional Hawaiian to acoustic Lady Gaga — but I give Chaize credit for having one of the few dining establishments willing to give musicians a venue.

If you go during prime mealtimes, the first thing you’ll see will be a line out the door. Don’t be discouraged by the long lines, which move quicker than you’d imagine.

In the process of moving that many plates, though, the food suffers a bit. Order the seared ahi poke salad ($9.25) and you’ll find the fish cooked all the way through. Beer-batter fried fish in both the Pier 38 fish tacos ($8) and fish-and-chips ($9.75) at lunch is not as light and crisp as it once was. Granted, most people understand they can’t be as picky at those prices, but it’s different when at night you’re paying $12.25 and $12.95, for those respective dishes, and entrees top out at about $16. At that price you expect better.

Luckily for Chaize, he’s built up lots of good will in the community since 2005, when I wrote about his original spot, and has a lot of support among all who feel a sense of ownership in having "discovered" the restaurant back when, and pride in his success. Also to his credit, he’s still a big presence, right on the front lines.

Beyond getting the hang of the larger crowd and the new kitchen, Nico’s has always been known for the integrity of serving fresh fish direct from the auction blocks, and that hasn’t changed. So beneath that layer of spongy batter in the fish taco is a pristine piece of fish, swordfish when I was there. Of course, I’d prefer taking a path less prone to error, by ditching the batter completely in this case and just going with herb-marinated, seared chunks of fish.

Sauces made from scratch have also been one of Nico’s claims to fame, and I love the cilantro sauce that accompanied a special of seared ahi with lobster. Unfortunately, the lobster was almost nonexistent, but the sauce made up for its absence. Others might not be as charitable after paying $16.25.

At $8 I didn’t know what kind of bouillabaisse I would get. It’s one with a nice saffron broth, with a chopped blend of fish, clams and mussels. When you do find a cube of fish to bite into, it’s like striking gold.

Most of the salads include a seafood centerpiece, from baby spinach topped with fried calamari ($9.25 lunch) or a crab cake ($9.25 lunch/$13.25 dinner) to seared ahi poke on ‘Nalo greens ($9.50 lunch). Favorites such as furikake seared ahi ($10.95 lunch/$14 dinner) and grilled ahi sandwich ($10.95 lunch/$12.95 dinner) are still on the menu.

Pizza options are margherita, pepperoni or pesto fish, at $14 to $17.

Due to the attention needed to cook fish to the proper doneness, I found I liked the meat dishes better, from a kalua pig sandwich ($8.50 lunch) to red wine-braised short ribs ($16) finished with Hawaiian salt that burst with dozens of little flavor explosions on the tongue. I was sad when it was all gone. Platers should watch the amount of fat going out on any particular plate, though.

Your meal’s not over until you walk away with dessert, and it’s really hard to avoid when it’s laid out in a much-photographed display between the registers and soft drink fountains. In case you overstuffed yourself, don’t worry: Decadent peanut butter-chocolate brownies, cheesecakes and other treats are all handily packaged to go in their see-through clamshells.

Adjoining the restaurant is Nico’s Fish Market where, after your meal, if you like what you’ve just tasted, you can shop for poke, fresh fish and other edibles, including Nico’s signature soups, stews and dressings, to go.

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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.