Toasting deepens flavor in pasta recipes

New snack sensation: toasted pasta. Try it. Heat some olive oil in a skillet, add broken pieces of pasta and toss until nicely toasted. Taste. OK, maybe it’s not on par with hot buttered popcorn, but you’ll be surprised.

Toasting pasta brings out a subtle, warm nuttiness. And if it’s yummy plain, imagine what happens when you cook it and add a panful of other ingredients. Actually, you don’t have to imagine, I’ll tell you: Your finished pasta dish will have a deeper, somehow more substantial flavor.

Toasting can be done in the oven or on the stove top. I chose the stove top in order to save on dishes and the energy needed to crank up the oven. If you prefer the oven, spread your pasta in a baking pan and toast at 375 degrees. Shake the pan often so the pasta browns evenly. It’s done when all the pasta is nice and golden.

Once toasted, the pasta goes into a simmering sauce, and a good amount of broth is added. The pasta cooks right in the sauce, so you don’t have to boil water on the side.

TOASTED PASTA WITH BACON AND MUSHROOMS

8 ounces dry angel-hair pasta
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup diced onion
1 cup diced bacon
1 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced
3 cloves garlic
2 anchovy fillets
1/4 cup fresh chopped herbs (for example oregano, basil and rosemary) or 1 teaspoon each dried herbs
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained well
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon pepper
2-1/2 cups chicken broth
2 to 4 cups spinach leaves, optional

Break pasta into 1-inch pieces. In large skillet (at least 12 inches wide), heat half the olive oil over medium-high heat. Place a large bowl next to stove.

Toast half the pasta in skillet, turning to coat in oil and continuing to turn until noodles are an even medium brown. Be careful not to let pasta burn or it will be bitter. Remove to bowl. Toast remaining pasta. Remove to bowl.

Sauté onion and bacon in skillet until onion starts to turn brown. Remove to bowl with pasta.

There should be a thin layer of bacon fat in skillet. If not, add a little more olive oil. Spread mushrooms in skillet and brown. For even browning, let mushrooms sit undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn. Resist urge to stir continually. Remove to bowl.

Meanwhile, mince garlic, anchovies and herbs together to form a rough paste. Combine with tomatoes and tomato paste. Scoop mixture into skillet and cook until any liquid evaporates, stirring occasionally. This will concentrate the tomato flavor.

When tomato mixture starts to brown, stir contents of bowl (pasta, onions, bacon and mushrooms) and add to skillet. Add chicken broth. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to simmer and cover. Let simmer about 5 minutes, until pasta is tender. Remove cover, stir and turn off heat. Stir in spinach if using. Let sit about 5 minutes before serving to let spinach wilt and pasta absorb any excess liquid. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving (without spinach): 430 calories, 18 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, greater than 1,200 mg sodium, 52 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 8 g sugar, 16 g protein

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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write “By Request,” Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.