Day to night

The idea seemed clear enough. Pull together three looks to take a man through the course of a busy day: casual, work and evening. But when I arrived at Men’s Wearhouse, there was a moment of culture shock.

For the mainland-based men’s emporium that opened last month at Ward Entertainment Center, work apparel meant dress shirts and day jackets. But few men in Hawaii dress that way, unless they work as a TV reporter or trial lawyer.

"Uh, let’s go with a camp shirt and linen pants," I said.

Nothing splashy, but culture shock can work two ways. From an isle perspective in which aloha shirts and T-shirts still rule the day, baby steps are sometimes necessary on the quest toward upping one’s fashion IQ.

Store manager Chuck Santos, who moved over from Men’s Wearhouse in California a month ago, said he’s still acclimating to Hawaii style, which is a notch or two more casual than what’s acceptable in Los Angeles. Meanwhile, the company is banking on a growing taste for fashion among Hawaii’s younger crowd, as well as otherwise confident older men who still need a little hand-holding in the fashion department.

"There are a lot of men who want to be dressed up but don’t know how. There’s been nowhere they can go to get help and advice," Santos said. "The first week I arrived here, I walked around Waikiki, and my experience walking into the boutiques is that whenever you walk in, salespeople are trained to say ‘hello,’ but there’s no one to work with you. You have to know what you’re looking for and go and find it."

Whereas the typical department store experience has men searching random-seeming racks to cobble together a unified look — good luck with that — Men’s Wearhouse is visually streamlined and organized so those who need no help can easily spot what they’re looking for, while the clueless can see examples of how ensembles work together. Staffers are always ready to help with advice or lend a hand in pulling pieces together.

WHILE Forever 21 Men entered the market last year with a budget price point and trendy styles aimed at youths, Men’s Wearhouse offers a step up with more serious fashion for men who need to impress on their way up the economic ladder.

In addition to house brands like Blue Pronto Uomo and Joseph & Feiss, the store carries designer suits, shirts and accessories by Calvin Klein, Joseph Abboud, Tommy Hilfiger, Kenneth Cole and Jones of New York, among others. Individual pieces generally range from about $60 to $100. The shop also carries a handful of shirts by Reyn Spooner.

Noting the trend in destination weddings, Men’s Wearhouse also offers tuxedos for purchase, starting at about $200, or rentals starting at about $60. Other services include in-house alterations, for a small fee, on any item. The store also offers free lifetime on-site pressing, which Santos said helps prolong the life of a suit.

Santos said customers so far "have been extremely happy to have a complete men’s store, from aloha shirts to suits."

Many of the suits have the slim fit prized by a younger generation that grew up attuned to fashion details, thanks to the entertainment media that have turned music and film stars into models of style.

Details include the current popularity of the peaked lapel, which Santos said gives the illusion of broader shoulders while tapering inward to give the waist a thinner appearance.

Santos said two suits are a good starting basis for any men’s wardrobe. Most men tend to start with one dark suit for evening and formal affairs, but a light suit works well for any day event, including weddings.

To help men build up their wardrobes, the store is offering an opening special: People who buy a suit have the option of buying a second of equal or lesser value for $100.

It’s also a good opportunity to get measured. Chances are, Santos said, most men have never been properly fitted for a suit, and if they ever have reason to wear one, it’s often the wrong size.

"They’re more concerned with feeling comfortable than having it fit right," he said, adding that a roomy jacket that "feels good" is generally two sizes too big, giving gents a boxy look that makes them look bigger than they are.

Wives and girlfriends of shoppers are often the sales staff’s best accomplices because they prefer a slim-cut look for their men, though it can be harder to satisfy those significant others than the men. When it comes to differences of opinion on what looks good and current, the men will depend on their sweethearts for the final word.

"They’ll often bring their significant others because they need that personal second opinion versus ours," Santos said. "Most of the time they’ll go with their wife or girlfriend’s choice because they know who’s boss."