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Young, edible, tightly coiled fern shoots are known by a host of names in Hawaii: pohole on Maui, hoio on Hawaii island, warabi by the Japanese, kosari by the Koreans and pako by the Filipinos. Whatever you call them, these fiddlehead ferns are a delicacy and often difficult to find, so look for them at farmers markets and ethnic markets.
What’s to like about a fern shoot? These rich, dark green shoots taste like a cross of asparagus and green bean with a little of the gelatinous texture of okra. They are crisp and chewy and a delicious change from the usual vegetables we consume. And they’re good for you with doses of vitamins B and C and iron.
Fern shoots grow in damp forest areas and are picked within the short time span that they are unfurled, about a two-week period. Measuring 8 to 10 inches long with its stalk, the shoots are about the thickness of a chopstick. They don’t last long, so eating them fresh is best; they should be bright green and firm when purchased.
Trim the base of the stems and wash well to remove any fine hairs on the stem. While some people like to eat fern shoots raw, it’s best to blanch them in boiling water for a few minutes to remove any bitterness. Then, refresh the shoots in cold water.
Use blanched fern shoots in salads or add them to stir-fry dishes, soups and braised preparations. You can purée fern shoots to use in a quiche or soufflé. A favorite island preparation is to mix them with sweet onions, tomatoes and a soy-based dressing. Treat fern shoots like asparagus or green beans and you can’t go wrong.
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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.
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