ASK Cheryl Vasconcellos what she most enjoys about her job as the executive director of Hana Health, and there’s no doubt pruning, planting and harvesting will be on her list. That’s because in addition to her administrative, financial, personnel, marketing, public relations and strategic planning responsibilities for East Maui’s only medical facility, she loves to work in the fields of Hana Fresh, its 7-acre certified organic farm.

"It’s very therapeutic for me," Vasconcellos said. "I know a lot of care and effort go into cultivating our crops. They’re like my children. I want them to be the best they can be, and I hope that others will appreciate the hard work and love that went into raising them."

Hana Fresh started in 2003 as a half-acre garden providing produce for Hana Health’s meal programs for senior citizens. A three-year, $1.2 million grant from the Administration for Native Americans in 2005 enabled the farm to increase its acreage, number of crops and income-producing options. Since then it has been a boon to the remote hamlet of Hana at the easternmost tip of Maui, providing residents with jobs; training opportunities in horticulture, sales, marketing, food processing and food preparation; and a strong, affordable, sustainable food source.

"The ancient Hawaiians were hardy and remarkably free from disease," Vasconcellos said. "A highly developed agricultural system contributed to their good health. Rooted in those traditions, Hana Health developed Hana Fresh, bringing together farming and health care in a holistic, culturally appropriate approach to wellness and self-sufficiency."

According to Vasconcellos, Hana Fresh’s mission is intrinsically tied to that of Hana Health, which is to promote a model of preventive care that fosters a healthy lifestyle and reduces the risk factors associated with chronic diseases such as asthma, diabetes and heart disease, particularly among Native Hawaiians. "Hana Fresh is an opportunity to demonstrate how hard work, physical activity and a diet of nutritious food can have a significant impact on the health of the individual and the larger community," she said. "It also contributes to the economic vitality of Hana while maintaining the area’s rural character."

Tours of Hana Fresh began in January 2011. They are Maui’s newest examples of the growing "agritourism" trend, which gives visitors a behind-the-scenes glimpse of working farms and ranches.

"Our board of directors determined the tours would be a natural extension of the Hana Fresh brand while creating a cultural and economic relationship with the 600,000 people who visit Hana annually," Vasconcellos said. "The tours engage them in an authentic agricultural experience, provide us with a revenue stream and share our vision with people from all over the world."

On two guided one-hour walks, visitors get close-up looks at many of the more than 100 varieties of certified organic produce, herbs and traditional Hawaiian food and medicine plants Hana Fresh grows. The crops range from basil, bananas and bell peppers to awa (kava), arugula and avocado.

"Our guests are always interested in the medicinal uses of Hawaiian plants and Hana Fresh’s sustainable practices, including recycling newspapers and boxes for packing, crop rotation to reduce the incidence of insects and disease, and a ‘no-till’ method of farming that doesn’t disturb the ecosystem below the surface of the soil," Vasconcellos said. "Visitors will have an opportunity to meet our farmers and taste food picked in the fields; this time of year, it may be papaya, carrots, cherry tomatoes and baby bell pepper. They’ll inhale the aroma of allspice trees, feel the damp soil under their feet and listen to birds singing overhead. It’s a peaceful and inspiring experience."

Crops are sold at the open-air Hana Fresh Market outside Hana Health within 48 hours of being harvested. The market also offers salads, sandwiches, entrees, baked goods, juices, smoothies and snacks prepared from the farm’s bounty at Hana Fresh Nutrition Center, the commercial kitchen behind Hana Health.

"When visitors have breakfast or high tea after their tour, they realize what they saw in the fields is now on their plate," Vasconcellos said. "That reinforces their appreciation for where their food comes from and generates excitement about the farm-to-table concept. Participants also learn how proceeds from the farm support Hana Health and the variety of programs that we sponsor."

For those who aren’t staying in Hana, this is an all-day excursion. Without stops it takes about two hours to drive the 57 miles from Wai­luku to Hana on a road with 617 turns and 56 one-lane bridges. All along the way are camera-worthy views of rain forests, waterfall-lined cliffs and the azure Pacific which extend most visitors’ drive time by at least an hour.

Lush, tranquil Hana lies at the end of the arduous but scenic journey; even in ancient times it was a sanctuary. Archaeological studies indicate a puu­ho­nua (place of refuge) was on or near the site of Hana Fresh. People who had broken ancient kapu (taboos) were protected there until they were absolved of their transgressions in rituals performed by kahuna (priests).

"Given all of the activities taking place here today, from health care to organic farming to wholesome food preparation, we believe this land can still be regarded as a place of cleansing and purification — a healing site," Vasconcellos said. "Our mission is to encourage healthy lifestyle choices and to empower people to assume responsibility for their well-being. Education is key, and our Hana Fresh tours make learning fun, interesting and delicious."