Hidden gem of grenache offers ripe and rustic taste

Grenache is a grape variety on the cusp of being "discovered" by the general public. At its best, grenache offers lush, ripe, delicious red fruit with a rustic, gamey, peppery edge that keeps the taster engaged from beginning to end.

The biggest challenge with grenache-based red wines is finding interesting renditions. Avoid the lackadaisical, overcropped versions from around the world that are often "fruit bomb" in style.

Here are a few wines that can start you on a new horizon worth exploring.

» 2010 Birichino Grenache "Vielles Vignes" (about $20 a bottle): Birichino is a newly launched Californian wine project spearheaded by former Bonny Doon winemaker John Locke. The core of this bottling is 101-year-old grenache vines from Monterey. The inaugural 2010 has ripe cherry-flavored fruit laced with white pepper, green peppercorns and a wild, rustic edge.

» 2009 Domaine D’Aupilhac "Lou Maset" (about $16): This charismatic grenache blend hails from the remote, wild southern France and its sun-baked countryside. It’s difficult to find wines from down south with this kind of deliciousness and food-friendliness.

» 2008 Sella Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva (about $15): Whatever the grape variety, a wine is largely dependent on what the winemaker envisions and crafts. This one possesses a "look" and style of grenache that’s distinct from the previous two wines. It is leaner, more structured and wildly rustic. While it may be a bit difficult to understand it on its own, try this wine with salami, pizza or even meatloaf, and you will be amazed at how it works its magic.

» 2009 Sang des Cailloux Vacqueyras (about $35): Without a doubt, this is not only one of the all-time favorite grenache blends globally year in and year out, it is also one of our favorite reds, too. This wine is wild, rustic, masculine, robust and certainly not for the faint-hearted. It has a rare soul and savoriness, with a deep core of ripe fruit, dried herbs and layers of interest. I would be hard pressed to think of a more interesting pairing for grilled, marinated steaks or lamb. And with a few years of cellaring, this wine will change into something unique and memorable.

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Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants chain. Betty Shimabukuro is on vacation. Her column, “By Request,” will return Aug. 8.