A plate lunch usually adds up to two or three meals for me. I tend to stop eating before I reach the point of discomfort because I hate feeling bloated after a meal. To put some numbers to the typical gastric capacity of an adult, the stomach measures about 12 inches long and 6 inches at its widest point and can hold about a quart of foodstuffs (try not to think about it too long).

I started feeling full halfway through a meal at Chutney. My stomach was telling me to stop, but my brain was signaling, "Keep going; you may not encounter anything this good for a while," mangling the communication of pleasure and pain. The quantity of food was not the only source of discomfort. Here they understand heat, so a request for medium-hot preparation resulted in dishes more fiery than usual, and still, I pressed on. I’m sure a brain scan at that very moment would have lighted up like that of a drug addict.

Yet, no matter how good, restaurants seem to come and go at 661 Keeaumoku St. I’m hoping Chutney takes up permanent residence. The restaurant specializes in home-style Nepali cuisine, which borrows heavily from neighboring India and the Chinese influences of Tibet. This six-or-so-table hole in the wall (configurations change based on the size of your party) keeps the menu streamlined by focusing on the Indian part of the equation, and dishes appear to be familiar, though flavors differ from every other Indian restaurant in town.

For instance, the masala curry ($10.95 to $12.95), which you can order in vegetarian, chicken, lamb or shrimp iterations, is a smooth blend of tomatoes, spices and cream that isn’t a traditional component of the Indian dish, and the Goan specialty, vindaloo ($9.95 to $12.95), has the sourness of vinegar, inspired by Portuguese cooking. Together with the sweeter onion and cream korma ($10.95 to $12.95), they make a diverse and compatible combination, so much so that I would be hard pressed to pick my favorite. Eat too much of the shrimp korma ($12.95) and you’ll long for the tart, savory lamb vindaloo ($12.95), then the fiery chicken masala ($10.95).

The portions, served in small bowls, appear to be no more than 8 or 10 ounces, so conceivably you could order all three styles of curry, but you’ll also have to factor in the amount of rice you’ll ingest with it, particularly if you like your curries hot.

Naan is your other option. The tandoori flatbread can be ordered plain ($2.95) or with garlic ($3.95), onion ($3.95) or cheese ($3.95). It’s drier and less oily than elsewhere.

Just like other Indian restaurants, Chutney offers such vegetarian-friendly dishes as vegetable pakoras, or fritters ($5.95), and spiced potato samosas (baked pastry, $5.95). Meat eaters can get the same dishes, respectively, with chicken ($6.95) and a turkey-and-pea filling ($6.95).

On the curry side of the menu is such vegetarian fare as channa masala ($9.95) made with chickpeas, dal curry ($9.95), aloo gobi of potato and cauliflower ($9.95) and saag paneer (spinach and cheese, $11.95) that could have used some spicing up. I always like the spinach with meat, and here, chicken ($12.95) and lamb ($13.95) are the two options.

You’ll also discover a new favorite noodle dish, the Tibetan-style chau chau, similar to chow mein, with soft noodles stir-fried with chicken and vegetables, and spiced with red pepper. This is another dish that will fill you up, but because of the fiery aspect, I just could not stop eating this.

I was too absorbed in what was in front of me to even notice there are also tandoori kebabs on the menu, something I’ll be back to try soon.

There was no dessert, but the mango lassi ($3.95), made with sour yogurt, filled the bill nicely.

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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.