As a high school teen in Northern California, Ted Henry remembers walking down the aisles in the liquor section of neighborhood grocery stores, admiring the labels on wine bottles and reading all the information that was on them. Although he wasn’t of legal drinking age, he already had a nose for fine wine.
"The complexities of wine fascinated me, and the artwork on the labels was fantastic," said Henry, who has been making wine in Napa Valley for 14 years. "There were several aisles of wines, probably hundreds of choices, in the stores where I grew up — in San Ramon, about 40 miles north of Napa."
Henry earned a winemaking degree from the University of California, Davis, which involved course work in chemistry, biology and plant science. For the past five years, he’s been the winemaker at Jarvis Winery, the first totally underground winery in the world.
"All operations take place in our 45,000-square-foot cave, which was dug into the side of a mountain," Henry said. "As you go deeper into the cave, there is more rock above you. At some points the cave is as deep as 100 feet (10 stories) underground. It utilizes natural underground cooling and has a temperature of 61 degrees Fahrenheit year-round, which is perfect for making and aging wine."
Henry will join representatives from six other notable California wineries at Four Seasons Resorts Lanai’s inaugural Lanai Cabernet Classic Wine Festival on Dec. 13-16. The event is a collaboration between the hotel and James Maher, a certified sommelier and Maui/Lanai sales manager for Johnson Bros., one of the state’s leading distributors of wine, spirits and nonalcoholic beverages.
"Wine is my passion," said Maher, a former general manager of Roy’s Poipu Bar and Grill on Kauai, and a former restaurant manager and wine director of the Beachhouse restaurant at the Moana Surfrider hotel in Waikiki. "I represent the participating wineries on Maui and Lanai, and have known many of their winemakers for years. What makes the Lanai Cabernet Classic stand out from Hawaii’s many other wine and food festivals is that it’s small and intimate. Guests will be able to meet, chat and dine with each winery’s owner or winemaker at a world-class resort during a festive time of the year."
Annette Whittley, assistant director of food and beverage for Four Seasons Resorts Lanai, is pleased to be launching a new signature event. "The culinary element is integral to our visitor experience," she said. "Our wine program offers more than 250 wines, and we’ve put on wonderful winemakers dinners for the past several years. The Lanai Cabernet Classic takes the concept of a traditional winemaker-hosted event to the next level by elevating the interaction between the winemakers, chefs and guests. From the opening reception to the closing brunch, attendees will enjoy one-on-one engagement with food and wine experts in picturesque settings."
Those settings include the Challenge at Manele golf course’s Tee Box, a practice tee that’s set on a cliff overlooking the ocean, Maui and Sweetheart Rock, an 80-foot sea stack between Manele and Hulopoe bays.
Executive Chef Kevin Erving is planning menus that include seasonal ingredients such as braised meats and winter greens. Although pairings will include all types of wine, cabernet sauvignon,
regarded as the king of red wine, will be center stage. According to Jarvis Winery’s Ted Henry, that is the most famous and most popular wine made in Napa Valley. It’s typically a robust wine with bold tannins and a long finish — the lingering taste that’s left on the back of the tongue as the wine is swallowed.
"Cabernet sauvignon appeals to many people because it nicely balances a powerful flavor with tannins, fruitiness and subtle varietal characteristics," Henry said. "The typical pairing of cabernet sauvignon is with steak, but many other foods go well with it, including lamb, pork and pasta dishes. Good food and wine bring people together in an atmosphere of joy and celebration that’s perfect for the holiday season."
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IF YOU GO…
LANAI CABERNET CLASSIC WINE FESTIVAL
>> Place: Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay, 1 Manele Road, Lanai City
>> Dates: Dec. 13-16
>> Phone: 565-2335
>> Email: lea.hennessy@fourseasons.com
SCHEDULE
Dec. 13
>> 5:30 to 7 p.m.: Welcome reception
Plumeria Lawn
The festival kicks off in a beautiful outdoor setting overlooking the ocean. Menu highlights: Smoked Ono (mackerel), Kona Coffee-Crusted Lamb Chops, Hamakua Mushroom and Puna Goat Cheese Puff Pastry. $85.
Dec. 14
>> 8 a.m.:Charity Golf Tournament Challenge at Manele
Golf buffs play to benefit the Lanai Cancer Fund, a nonprofit organization that raises awareness about cancer and helps Lanai residents who are battling the life-threatening disease. $125 ($75 is tax-deductible).
>> 2 to 4 p.m.: Wine Tasting Alfresco
Hale Iki
Enjoy an afternoon of complimentary wine tasting at the resort’s poolside cabanas.
>> 6 to 9 p.m.: Passport Lanai: Food & Wine Journey
Challenge at Manele Tee Box
Menu highlights: Warm Pork Belly and Spinach Salad, Lamb Shank Ravioli, Slow-Braised Sous Vide Short Rib with Molokai Sweet Potato Puree. $125.
Dec. 15
>> 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.
>> 2 to 4 p.m.
Wine Seminar
Hale Ahe Ahe lounge
Complimentary seminars discuss the concept of terroir (from the French word “terre,” meaning “land”), which suggests the environment where grapes are grown (i.e., geography, geology and climate) imparts unique characteristics to the wines made from them.
>> 6 to 9 p.m.: Lanai Cabernet Classic Wine Dinner
Hulopoe Court restaurant
Savor a six-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Menu highlights: Pineapple Poached Foie Gras, Prosciutto-Wrapped Diver Scallops, Braised Veal Cheeks with Butternut Gnocchi. $175.
Dec. 16
>> 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.: Champagne Brunch
Hale Halawai ballroom
Menu highlights: Made-to-order omelets; pineapple-glazed ham; Keahole lobster mashed potatoes; assortment of crepes (ham, spinach, brie, banana, berry compote); selections from Champagne Collet, an acclaimed French champagne house. $55.
>> 5 to 9 p.m.: Sunset Winemaker Luau
Luau Gardens
Menu highlights: Kim Chee Crab, Pulehu Island Pig, Steamed Island Snapper with Chili Ginger Sauce. $150.
Notes: The minimum age requirement to attend the Lanai Cabernet Classic is 21. Advance reservations are required. Tickets can be purchased individually, or guests can receive admission to all events as part of a package, the rates for which start at $379 per night, single occupancy, and $529, double occupancy, based on a four-night stay (check in on Dec. 13 and check out on Dec. 17). To book, call toll free 800-321-4666.
FEATURED WINERIES
Blackbird: www.blackbirdvineyards.com
Buccella: www.buccella.com
Capiaux Cellars: www.capiauxcellars.com
L’Aventure: www.aventurewine.com
Husic: www.husicvineyards.com
Jarvis: www.jarviswines.com
O’Shaughnessy: oshaughnessywinery.com
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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Sta-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.
