Sweet serpentine pastry coils to greet Year of Snake

We should all eat a snake in the next few days, given that Sunday marks the dawning of the Year of the Snake. Not a real snake — the genuine reptile being hard to come by in these parts. A symbolic snake tasting would be good enough to celebrate this zodiac character’s qualities of thoughtfulness and wisdom.

There are many ways to pull this off using breadstick dough twisted into snakelike shapes, a fun and easy way to entertain kids as the Lunar New Year approaches.

But I’m suggesting a different fusing of cultures, a snake pastry made with filo dough and filled with ground almonds. Its origin is Morocco, where it is called m’hanncha, or snake cake. Traditional recipes call for orange flower water, which you are welcome to hunt down, but since we’re just in this for symbolism’s sake, I have a simplified formula.

You will need filo dough found in the frozen desserts section at supermarkets. You’ll also need almonds and a food processor or very good blender to grind the nuts. Layers of filo are rolled around the almond filling to make logs that are joined and coiled to make a snake. The result taste-wise is a cross between a bear claw and baklava.

Other fillings are possible. Perhaps shredded roast duck and hoisin sauce. Why not? Happy new year.

Snake Pastry

9 sheets of filo dough, thawed (see note)

1/4 cup melted butter

1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Honey, for drizzling

» Filling:

1-1/2 cups sliced almonds

1/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup melted butter

To make filling: Combine nuts, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla in bowl of food processor and grind into a coarse meal. Slowly add butter and process to make a moist paste that will easily hold together. Form into 6 logs; chill 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a cookie sheet with baking parchment.

Dust work surface with powdered sugar or flour. Place a sheet of filo on work surface and fold into thirds lengthwise. Brush generously with butter. Top with another sheet, also folded in thirds, and more butter. Repeat with a third sheet. Line up 2 logs of almond filling along one edge of dough, pressing out filling so it reaches within an inch of each end. Fold in the ends, then roll the dough around the filling to form one long roll. Brush with egg wash to seal. Roll into a tight coil and place on baking sheet.

Repeat process with remaining dough and filling to make 2 more long rolls. Add each to the coil on the baking sheet to make one big coil. Lift the end of the last coil to make a head. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with cinnamon, if desired. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown.

If desired, cut slits into the head and insert nuts, sesame seeds or dried fruit to make eyes and a tongue. Serve drizzled with honey.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Note: Filo dough needs to be thawed overnight in the refrigerator or 4-5 hours at room temperature, so plan accordingly. A box of dough typically comes with 18 sheets. If you don’t want leftovers, double the recipe and make 2 snakes.

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