The good news is the deviled eggs are back with the reopening of the Spalding House Cafe at the Honolulu Museum of Art Spalding House (formerly Contemporary Cafe at The Contemporary Museum).

Those eggs disappeared for a brief period when the museum was going through major changes as it became part of the Honolulu Museum of Art in 2012. The cafe was closed for a monthlong kitchen renovation, and regulars will find the dining area virtually intact, with the same outdoor murals by Ryan Higa and Angry Woebots by Aaron Martin. It just may look a bit more cluttered than usual while the cafe doubles as an interim gift shop.

Save for the eggs, the rest of the menu at the former cafe was generally one big "meh." Even though I don’t require great ambience to enjoy a meal, the lush and serene museum grounds, with a picture-window view of Diamond Head, kept me coming back for many a weekend brunch, despite the yawn of a menu. The one bright spot were the deviled eggs, because the cafe was one of the few places to offer the homespun dish. I complained and complained to manager Bob Madison — I think bodily harm was mentioned — until he got tired of listening, and one day they were back.

On a recent weekday visit I saw two platefuls of eggs ($7) go by, but those went to other tables before mine arrived. They’re different. The familiar toppings of pesto and capers have been swapped for a dollop of ajvar, a Serbian red-pepper puree, smoked paprika and pickled onion with a sprinkling of alae Hawaiian salt, a reflection of changes implemented by new chef Susan Lai Hipp, a veteran of 3660 on the Rise and Kakaako Kitchen, who most recently served as assistant team leader with the Whole Foods Kahala prepared-foods department. She’s attune to dealing with allergies, food sensitivities and finickiness, so is open to making substitutions when needed.

She’s also introducing one lunch special a month. For March it’ll be a St. Patrick’s Day lunch taking place noon to 2 p.m. March 17, at $22 per person. On the menu: curried parsnip and carrot soup; lomi kale salad with Guinness vinaigrette and aged cheddar; corned beef or baked cod with mustard-braised cabbage and turnip and potato mash; and apple bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce.

Although the small kitchen still turns out a similar small number of soups, salads and sandwiches, the choices are more modern and complex, with more attention to detail. An ordinary grilled cheese sandwich becomes a grown-up version with creamy cheese fondue, dijon and melty tomato. The cheese melts into crisp buttered toast for a heavenly experience. It’s $14, including a choice of a house salad or cup of soup. Soup is now served in ceramic cups handmade by local artist Daven Hee, each one different. A recent offering of butternut squash and potato soup was divine, with a hint of ginger and hot pepper.

Also back for the grazers among us is the mezze ($12) of hummus, feta, Kalamata olives, artichoke, tomato and warm pita, with the addition of labne, a dense yogurt that resembles cheese.

Salads take a healthier direction, such as a Caesar ($9) that starts not with water-filled lettuce, but vitamin-rich curly kale with rice-based bubu arare replacing glutinous bread croutons. It’s $13 with chicken. You could also get that Caesar in a wrap ($13) with a choice of spinach or sun-dried tomato tortilla.

And it’s good to see quinoa sprouting up on more local menus. Here the protein- and calcium-rich pearls are kissed with a touch of curry as the centerpiece of a salad ($13) of beets, butternut squash and Brussels sprouts, dressed with a light lemon vinaigrette.

Continuing the healthy streak, I opted for the grilled veggie panini ($14). Alas, the memory of the grilled cheese sandwich and its perfect bread made the pita-style panini less enjoyable than it could have been. The combination of grilled eggplant, provolone, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and olive tapenade was tasty, but the colors were dark and unattractive, and it was not helped by the sad way the ingredients flattened out in the already flat bread.

I enjoyed the bread a bit more with a turkey Reuben ($14), the sliced turkey layered with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing. The toppings give the sandwich credible Reuben flavor. Despite the healthful substitution, I know of at least one person who says a Reuben without corned beef is an abomination.

Veggie and ham and cheese wraps ($13 to $14) round out the menu.

For dessert the gateau, a flourless chocolate cake layered with chocolate mousse and whipped cream ($7), also remains as one of the 15-year hits off the former Contemporary Cafe menu.

In addition to assorted gelato and sorbeto ($6) from La Gelateria and cheesecake ($7), there was also a daily special of a fresh berry cobbler. I’m glad the cafe is making more of an effort to add to its repertoire in the dessert department as well.

I’m liking the changes, and hope they can continue to bring variety to the menu. Breathtaking scenery and art deserve elevated cuisine.

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Nadine Kam‘s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.