Cafe offers victuals, but tea is its thing

Growing up in a Chinese household, tea was a birthright for Ervin Gong, so it makes sense to find him running an online tea business and tea cafe today. But, it was far from a linear experience.

"My family always had tea, but I was never into it as a kid," said the owner of Tea Farm Cafe in Puck’s Alley. It was only after graduating from college that, needing respite from years of studying, he was able to take a relaxing detour, backpacking his way through Indonesia and China, where he became steeped in tea culture.

Gong grew up in Hawaii without learning to speak the Chinese language, but when he reached Beijing, he decided to stay and learn Mandarin.

"At university, there was no place to study, except for a tea shop, where it was so serene and peaceful."

He was also amazed by the diversity of the teas, and after a year in China, Gong returned home with the desire to open a tea cafe.

Lacking the funds to do so, he started more humbly in 2005, importing teas from around the world and setting up The Tea Farm shop online before branching out to a physical location close to the University of Hawaii at Manoa, where other students might be able to discover the joys of tea.

The cafe’s tea assortment is set up on narrow shelves along one wall, allowing enthusiasts to browse the library of flavors. I went in looking for the Pu-erh I enjoyed in Shanghai, but was mightily tempted by the spicy masala chai and was sold on the sweet, creamy fragrance of the milk oolong.

A 16-ounce cup of tea is $2.95, and pot of tea is $5.45. Add 50 cents for premium teas.

The 63 or so teas available guarantee a steady return of tea aficionados in pursuit of the full range of infusions with specimens from Asia, India, Egypt and South Africa. Gong counts among his favorites the pan-fried Longjing or Dragon Well green tea and Silver Needle white tea, the downy, silvery leaf shoots once reserved for the Chinese imperial family.

If you’re not feeling well, staffers can also recommend various blends to ease your suffering, such as Masala Chai with a touch of chamomile. There are also teas said to help with meditation, such as relaxing lavender or the dessert-like Hazelnut Honey Bush tea.

Beyond tea, there are simple edibles such as soups, lettuce salads and sandwiches.

You’ll find basic, home-style BLT ($6.95) and pastrami ($6.95) sandwiches on white or wheat bread. Nothing fancy. The tea is still the main act, and the food simply ensures you won’t faint from hunger. The pastrami sandwich offers a single layer of meat with lettuce and tomato. The pesto chicken ($6.95) is the most substantial of the sandwiches, all of which come with a choice of soup or salad.

Also available are turkey and cheese croissants ($4.75), chicken salad ($7.25), a chicken fajita wrap ($6.95), and good for sharing, kalua pork nachos ($5.75) topped with diced tomatoes, cheese and sour cream.

A bakery case shows the many pastry and cake offerings also available. Most of the pastries have other provenances. While the cafe’s official baker is on maternity leave, only the cupcakes ($2.75 to $3.25 each) are made by The Tea Farm, and they are worth trying.

Recent green tea and vodka chocolate versions were true to their original ingredients and pleasantly moist.

New to the menu are a couple of $25 picturesque dessert courses that seem to be tailored for the Facebook/Foodspotting/Instagram crowd, as delicious to share virtually as with your real friends. Choose Tea Farm S’mores with a cup-size burner accompanied by a plateful of Graham crackers, marshmallows and chocolate squares, or ice cream fondue, with a selection of vanilla, chocolate and green tea ice cream hearts, brownie pieces and marshmallows awaiting a dip in melted chocolate.

At least four can share the last, but because the chocolate melts the ice cream quickly, it might be better if the staff would swap some of the ice cream for fresh fruit.

With Mother’s Day around the corner, add The Tea Farm Cafe’s newly launched high tea service to your list of destination possibilities. High tea starts at $25 per guest for tea for two. The service features one food tier of finger sandwiches, scones and fresh fruit; one pot of tea of choice; and one dessert per person. Reservations are required.

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Nadine Kam‘s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.