Long before 1920s bobs, finger waves and short fringe bangs came roaring back into vogue, thanks to anticipation over Baz Luhrmann’s "The Great Gatsby," W Salon creative director Thi Nguyen was a fan of the era’s classic glamour and chic, modern aesthetic.
Although most of us can picture black-and-white images of flappers, he says illustrations and paintings from the era tell another story, and what struck Nguyen most was seeing fiery red and copper hair symbolic of the youth rebellion of the period.
"It was the beginning of the modern era. World War I had ended, the economy was uncertain and people lived for the moment. Old money mixed with new money, and if you walked into a party, you didn’t know who was a princess and who was a prostitute," he said.
Jazz, a new American art form, came to symbolize the new generation’s zest for life, and the Jazz Age became the first modern era to emphasize youth culture over older generations.
Women won the right to vote in 1920, and they abandoned corsets and buttoned-up dresses for sleek new garments that were fringed, feathered and hemmed to maximize skin exposure. And they cut their hair short. "It was a big fashion statement," Nguyen said.
The French never abandoned their love of the era’s chic finger waves and kiss curls, curved pieces of hair that hang flat against the cheek, or spirals looped on the forehead, and growing up in French-influenced Vietnam, Nguyen taught himself how to create the look.
He’s now teaching the techniques to his team of stylists, finding that it’s suitable for glamorous evenings out and for adding a romantic finish to summer bridal looks.
In early times the look was achieved with tight pin curls, but Nguyen saves time with a curling iron. You’ll also need holding products and lots of patience.
Start by sectioning the hair that frames the face in three to four handfuls running top to bottom.
Spray hair with a volumizing spray, such as Kerastase Densitive GL ($40). Twist hair around curling iron and hold for about 20 seconds before loosening. Repeat with each segment. When done, gather hair and coax into a flowing "S" shape.
For longer hair use Shu Uemura Volume Maker ($45), an invisible powder, to lift hair at the roots. Set with more spray.
For a dramatic look on shorter hair, use Shu Uemura’s Extreme Urushi ($35), a Japanese lacquer-inspired fixing gel, and Cotton Uzu ($35), a cream wax for a soft, controlled hold with shine.
W Salon is at Ala Moana Center. Call 943-2700.
