Film depicts ordeal of wine master’s quest

In the film "SOMM," writer-director Jason Wise showcases the arduous journey of four candidates in pursuit of the master sommelier diploma, the highest credential in wine service.

Having served as the education chairman for the Court of Master Sommeliers American chapter for many years, I can attest to the difficulty of the exam, attention to detail required and high stress of the endeavor. All of this is depicted in the film, which had its sole screening in Hawaii last week at Kahala 8.

The reason for this is not to create an elitist club, but rather to foster and maintain a high standard of wine service and professionalism.

There are fewer than 200 master sommeliers worldwide, and the film provides insight into why the title remains so difficult to attain. (Candidates must pass three levels of classes and tests before qualifying to sit for the master sommelier exam.)

Wise masterfully provides different perspectives on the experience — through the eyes of candidates Brian McClintic, DLynn Proctor, Dustin Wilson and Ian Cauble — capturing both poignant and humorous moments. The group’s blind tastings, for example, keenly convey the camaraderie and respect the men hold for one another; they also reveal the men’s personalities and different approaches to readying for the exam.

Most of the film’s focus is on blind tasting and theory, but those aspects alone do not represent the program in its entirety.

First and foremost, the master sommelier diploma is geared toward the restaurant professional, who is anchored in service. Although a few scenes in the film chronicle the practical-service exam, in my opinion, service really is the "meat and potatoes" of the program. Likewise, food-and-wine pairings weren’t given much screen time, but this skill is also vital to service on the restaurant floor.

The film was a nostalgic jaunt for me, as I was one of the candidates invited to sit for the very first master sommelier exam given in the United States. It certainly was intimidating, because none of us knew what to expect or what was expected of us. As one candidate mentions in the film, it’s nearly impossible to take on this challenge alone. I was fortunate to have my best friend (and master sommelier) Nunzio Alioto by my side.

All in all, I was moved by the candidates’ trials and tribulations, which were conveyed with depth and honesty. I hope this film inspires others in our industry to master their craft, too.

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Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants chain, which includes Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar.