Jeff Bagshaw’s first visit to Haleakala National Park was a "light bulb experience." On that 1988 hiking and camping trip with his college group from Washington state, he saw more endangered wildlife in three days than he had in months on the mainland.
"I was hooked," Bagshaw recalled. "I stayed to volunteer in the park that summer because I was fascinated not only with the biology but with the way nature and the Hawaiian culture are connected. I decided to become a ranger because I wanted to be part of the National Park Service’s efforts to take care of this amazing place."
For all but two years since, Bagshaw, who holds degrees in botany and ecology, has worked at HNP in various roles. He’s currently the interpretation supervisor, overseeing the rangers who lead hikes, staff the three visitor centers and conduct activities that help vacationers learn about the park’s abundant natural treasures.
HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK
» Hours: The park is open 24 hours year-round except when severe weather is deemed a safety hazard.
» Visitor centers: Open daily year-round. Hours are 8 a.m. to 3:45 p.m. at the Park Headquarters Visitor Center, sunrise to 3 p.m. at the Haleakala Visitor Center and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Kipahulu Visitor Center.
» Admission: $10 per private vehicle (up to 14 passengers) and $5 for motorcyclists, bikers and hikers (children 15 and younger are admitted free); valid for three days. Check the website for rates for organized groups and annual and lifetime passes.
» Phone: 572-4400 for general information; 248-7375 for information about the Kipahulu area
» Email: hale_interpretation@nps.gov
» Website: www.nps.gov/hale
» Notes: The following brochures can be downloaded at www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/brochures.htm: park map, newsletter, hiking, programs, cabins and camping.
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Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, including Haleakala volcano, was established on Aug. 1, 1916, the same year Congress created the National Park Service. HNP was designated a separate national park on Sept. 13, 1960. It stretches over 33,500 acres — from the lush, warm coastal region of Kipahulu to the volcano’s barren, chilly summit. Nearly three-fourths of the land is wilderness.
According to Bagshaw, Haleakala was initially recognized because of its unique geology, but its role has evolved over the decades.
"It’s now a haven for native plants and animals," he said. "About 90 percent of the species at the summit are native. We encourage visitors to explore. Hike the trails, examine rocks with a magnifier, ‘talk story’ with a ranger who’s weaving lau hala — the more time you spend here, the richer your experience will be."
BAGSHAW is thrilled to see visitors’ "light bulb" moments. He recalled a college student whose car broke down at the summit — where rangers often offer activities related to Polynesian voyaging because people look at the vast Pacific from that lofty vantage point and wonder how the ancient mariners could sail without any navigation equipment.
"The student had to wait two hours for a tow truck, so he participated in our demonstration," Bagshaw said. "Before long, he was enthusiastically teaching as many people as I was — explaining, for example, how to use the stars to figure out compass directions. He was no longer ‘just’ a tourist; he had become a champion, a protector, of the park. That’s our hope for everyone who visits."
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.
Park activities and programs
The park’s Kipahulu area has about three miles of trails; sights include waterfalls, freshwater pools and bamboo forests. There are more than 35 miles of trails in the summit and wilderness areas, ranging from quarter-mile walks to strenuous multiday trips. Views encompass cinder deserts, cloud forests and subalpine shrubland. Free maps are available at the visitor centers and online.
Free guided hikes, nature talks and cultural demonstrations are scheduled regularly. Keiki 7 to 12 years old can earn a Junior Ranger badge by completing an activity booklet during their visit. Participating in the Citizen Science program helps visitors of all ages answer questions on their own with guidance and tools from the park’s staff.
Haleakala National Park has two "hike-in" and two "drive-up" campgrounds. Three cabins, each accommodating 12 people, are also available. Check the website for more information on all of these offerings.
Heads up
» There are no services in the park, and the nearest stores, lodging, restaurants and gas stations are at least a 30-minute drive away. Be sure your car’s tank is full; wear appropriate clothing; and bring food, water, sunscreen, insect repellent and other supplies.
» Weather conditions are unpredictable. This time of year, temperatures can range from 50 degrees at the summit to 85 degrees in the Kipahulu district. Temperatures drop an average of 3 degrees for every 1,000-foot rise in elevation, which makes the summit about 30 degrees cooler than coastal areas.
» The summit’s high altitude might complicate health conditions and cause breathing difficulties. Particularly susceptible are young children, pregnant women, elderly visitors and those with heart or respiratory conditions. Consult your doctor before going to the summit.
» Erosion, earthquakes, flash floods and freezing temperatures are all possible. Be alert, follow rangers’ advice, obey all posted signs and stay on marked trails.
» Medical assistance can take up to an hour to arrive. If you’re planning to camp and/or go on long hikes, bring a basic first-aid kit (good checklists are online).
Did you know?
» Rising 10,023 feet above sea level, Haleakala is the highest point on Maui and the third-highest point in Hawaii (after Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa volcanoes on Hawaii island).
» One species of the rare ahinahina (silversword) is found only on Haleakala. It flowers just once and dies soon after.
» More endangered and endemic (found nowhere else) species of plants and animals can be found at Haleakala than any other park in the National Park Service.
» On the drive to the summit, you’ll pass through as many ecological zones as you would on a trip from Mexico to Canada.
» Haleakala’s high elevation and lack of light and environmental pollution make it among the best and most easily accessible places in the world for stargazing. No telescope is needed.
» The Civilian Conservation Corps built many of the park’s trails and structures in the mid-1930s, including its three cabins.
» If the weather is clear, five islands can be seen from atop Haleakala: Oahu, Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe and Hawaii island.