Pure Heritage

Ranching on the hilly, rocky, drought-prone terrain of Kau requires tenacity — not to mention cattle that can handle the rugged environment. The Galimbas, owners of the 10,000-acre Kuahiwi Ranch in Kau, delved into research to find such a cow and discovered the British White, a heritage, or ancient, breed of cow traced back in the United Kingdom to the Roman Empire.

"British Whites have good, strong feet and legs to handle the rocks and hills, and they gain weight easily in less-than-ideal pasture," said Michelle Galimba, who runs the ranch with her parents, Sami and Al.

On the plate, the beef has a mild taste rather than a strong grassy flavor, and unlike many grass-fed cattle, some of its fat is marbled into the flesh.

"This breed has so many good qualities," said Galimba. "It’s a great breed for sustainability."

Kuahiwi’s experience with the British White illustrates the practical application of heritage breeds to a viable, localized food system.

In fact, the ranch has been so successful with British Whites that it is now able to supply Whole Foods Market with 10 head a month.

This weekend, the Kailua and Kahala stores will feature tastings of the product.

The beef will also be featured as specials at Alan Wong’s restaurant as it’s available.

"They have a great product," said Wong. "The most important thing is how the animals are cared for, what they are fed, and Al Galimba takes good care. It’s a locally raised product by a local family, and I always support that."

Heritage breeds draw interest for a number of reasons. In Hawaii much of the activity surrounding them is taking place in the hog farming community.

On Maui in 2010, Lehua and David Fitch, former software consultant and furniture maker, respectively, opened Malama Farm on 4.5 acres of Haiku land to raise Berkshire pigs, the heritage breed that consistently rates top in taste.

Their motivation: the documentary film "Food Inc." and the book "Omnivore’s Dilemma," by Michael Pollan, both of which criticize today’s industrialized food system in which animals are raised in factory settings.

"We knew nothing about farming, but we saw how poorly animals are treated in our food system, and we started out to try to figure out a better model to farm pigs," said David Fitch.

On three acres the Fitches employ a rotation system that always provides the pigs fresh grass and allows the land to rest.

Fitch says Hawaii provides the perfect conditions for Berkshires — "rugged and hearty animals" — because they were bred to be raised outdoors.

On the remaining acreage, the Fitches grow papaya, avocado, banana, macadamia nuts and chestnuts. These, along with overripe organic produce from markets, are fed to the pigs.

"Our motto is, ‘If we wouldn’t feed this to our 2-year-old, we won’t feed it to our pigs,’" said Fitch.

All that care pays off. With a breeding stock of one boar and five sows, the Fitches have created a successful business supplying their pigs to Hawaii chefs. At any given time they are raising 20 to 30 piglets, and "the demand exceeds my ability."

On Kauai, nearly a century before the Fitches were inspired to take action, M & H Kaneshiro Farms began raising hogs in 1920. Today, Valerie Kaneshiro is among the third generation operating the farm, which moves more than 200 head a month. It caters to all of Kauai, from Big Save and Times, the island’s two largest supermarkets, to individual families.

Kaneshiro has overseen breeding there since 1983, so it’s no surprise she sees the value of heritage breeds in terms of breeding.

"Heritage breeds offer biodiversity," she said. "Every breed has different strengths. They may not be desirable taste-wise, but maybe they’re disease-resistant."

The vast majority of the farm’s pigs are mixed-breeds; Kaneshiro says the general market cannot support the costly rearing of heritage pigs. Breeds are mixed for "heterosis," offspring that possess qualities superior to those of either parent.

That fact has Kaneshiro converting her small herd of mixed heritage-breed pigs to Berkshire. She began importing Berkshire semen two years ago and through artificial insemination now has pigs that are 75 percent Berkshire.

Kaneshiro is extremely careful about selecting pigs for breeding.

"I spend a lot of time with the individual pigs, care for the individuals and pay attention to each individual," she said. "I record their progress. I select the best of the best of the best."

Kaneshiro also assists other farmers. She sent Shinsato Farm in Kahaluu hogs that were half Berkshire. Owner Amy Shinsato is in the process of purifying the line. She says their heritage hogs go to chef Ed Kenney of town restaurant.

Over at Ahualoa Hog Farm in Hamakua on the Big Island, Daphne McKeehan is purifying lines of Yorkshire, Duroc, Berkshire and Herford heritage breeds via artificial insemination.

At the 20-acre farm she started with her husband, Ron, in 1994, she’s bred 10 generations of Yorkshire, saying that "after you get past seven-eighths pure, that’s pretty pure."

McKeehan supplies farms with the pigs she breeds. "I’m trying to keep these breeds alive and thriving so somebody else can do what they want with it," she said.

The farm is impeccably clean and certified as so, and this, as well as McKeehan’s high standards for her heritage lines, draws clients from across the globe.

But more than anything, she wants to sustain heritage lines in Hawaii.

"There are some bad diseases on the mainland right now, and it’s spreading. Pigs are dying everywhere. In my own mind, I’m thinking that if something happens there, here in Hawaii, at least there are four lines purified," she said. "I guess it’s my own way of protecting one little thing in this world."

ALAN WONG’S TARATARE

Chef Alan Wong makes carpaccio and tartare, dishes of raw beef, only if he trusts the rancher. "As important as the flavor is the absence of any off-odor or off-taste. The beef should be clean and wholesome," he said. 

In his latest cookbook, "The Blue Tomato," the chef includes this recipe for Kuahiwi Beef Carpaccio and Tartare, featuring grass-fed beef. Note that the Chili Lemongrass sauce must sit overnight, so plan ahead accordingly.

KUAHIWI BEEF CARPACCIO AND TARTARE WITH CHILI LEMONGRASS AND MANGO
"The Blue Tomato," by Alan Wong

>> Tartare:
2 ounces strip loin steak, finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon finely minced shallot
>> Carpaccio:
2 ounces Kuahiwi beef tenderloin, thinly sliced
>> Garnish and sauce:
5 pieces mango, cut into 1/2-by-1/4-inch cubes
1/2 tablespoon thinly sliced shallot rings
1/2 tablespoon thinly sliced green jalapeno rings
Micro cilantro
Mint sprigs
1/4 cup Chili Lemongrass (see below)
>> Chili Lemongrass:
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1-1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
1-1/2 tablespoons sambal oelek
1/2 cup diagonally sliced lemongrass
2 tablespoons sliced ginger
1 tablespoon sliced garlic 

Make chili lemongrass: In nonreactive mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and let sit overnight. The next day, pour mixture through fine strainer; discard solids. Store in covered jar in refrigerator. Makes 2 cups. 

For tartare, in bowl, season strip loin with salt. Add chives and shallot; mix well to incorporate ingredients.

Form tartare into a ball, then roll on flat surface to shape into 3/4-inch-diameter log. Chill in refrigerator until ready to serve.

For carpaccio, pound tenderloin flat between two sheets of plastic wrap; chill. 

Remove carpaccio from refrigerator and peel off one side of plastic wrap. Flip onto center of plate. Remove remaining plastic wrap.

Place tartare in center of carpaccio. Around carpaccio, scatter mango, shallot, cilantro and mint, and spoon Chili Lemongrass. Serve immediately. Serves 1.