While in high school in Portland, Ore., I frequented a Lebanese restaurant off the beaten path. I was proud of myself for finding such a great hole-in-the-wall brimming with adults who seemed to know about food. This was a time before Yelp left no stone unturned.

On Saturday nights, low lights painted the dining room yellow and the place was packed, with chatter loud enough that you could have a feeling of privacy while still being a part of the group’s energy. Tabletops were crowded with shared mezze platters bumping against hot, floury pitas, which we dipped in hummus drizzled with olive oil.

If the only hummus you’ve had is from a plastic container, you’ve been eating an entirely different food. Store-bought hummus is acidic and lacks the warmth that fruity olive oil and tahini can bring.

Besides that, making hummus is barely more difficult than driving to a store and standing in line. And the potential of this dish is often underestimated — it is great for raw veggie sticks, as a spread on a sandwich and is even better than seven-layer dip for chips.

A decision to add kim chee to my basic hummus was inexplicable, except that I had a hunch.

I was right that hummus’ strong flavor could stand up to the kim chee. Pureed won bok kim chee gives it a stronger flavor, but the beans are not overpowered by the bitterness.

The fusion is not as strange as you might think. This version has other spicy and garlicky notes as well, and my opinion is that you have no reason to leave any of them out, even if you’re afraid of bad breath.

But if you want a classic hummus, or even just a base for other flavors, such as roasted red pepper or avocado, leave out the kim chee.

Warning: This is not low-fat or low-calorie. But it is high in taste.

KIM CHEE HUMMUS

3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
4 tablespoons tahini
1/4 cup water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon honey
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans
1/3 cup won bok kim chee, with 2 tablespoons of its juice

In skillet over medium heat, soften garlic. Separate cloves, leaving skins intact, and cook several minutes, turning when browned. Garlic will be soft and should slide out easily from its skin.

In small bowl, whisk together tahini, water, lemon juice, salt, honey and oil. Set aside.

Process beans and garlic in food processor and stream in tahini mixture. Stop to scrape sides of bowl with spatula; process until smooth. Remove to bowl.

Puree kim chee and its juice for 1 minute (no need to wash the food processor), until kim chee is almost a loose paste. There will be some texture, but not much. Scrape down bowl at least twice during processing.

Fold and stir puree into hummus until well incorporated. (You may increase puree to 1/2 cup, depending on strength of kim chee and your desired taste.)

Serve immediately or store in refrigerator and eat within two days. Serves 6 to 8.

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Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at www.thelittlefoodie.com.

BY REQUEST: Betty Shimabukuro takes the last week of each month off. Her column returns Nov. 6.