Back when Futaba Restaurant and Catering opened in July 1975, its neighbors included Arakawa’s store and Big Way market.
Those businesses have long since closed. In a few weeks Waipahu will lose another longtime favorite when Futaba owners Tadao and Carol Nezu shut down their Japanese restaurant after nearly four decades of serving the Leeward side.
"We had a wonderful 39 years," said Carol Nezu, 70. "When we first opened, Japanese food wasn’t well known. No one used wasabi … no one used tempura sauce. They wanted mayonnaise, ketchup, tartar sauce."
It took some time, but the Nezus were able to persuade people to try Japanese food beyond saimin. And over the years, Futaba has become a fixture in Waipahu, with regulars accustomed to being greeted by Auntie Carol and popping into the kitchen to say hello to Mr. Nezu.
Like many mom-and-pop establishments, Futaba has a loyal customer base that has kept it going all these years. But few of them have a "pop" with a pedigree like Tadao Nezu, 80.
Born in Japan, Nezu was an acclaimed chef in his home country well before coming to Hawaii. He worked his way up through many prominent restaurants and hotels, eventually being honored as an official chef of then-Crown Prince and current Emperor Akihito’s wedding in 1959. An official Imperial household proclamation in recognition of that honor hangs near the entrance of Futaba.
On a company work visa, Nezu came to Hawaii in 1967 to open Wako at the Atlas Insurance Building and Hanabishi, a large restaurant that was located above Shirokiya in Ala Moana Center.
It was here that Tadao met and married Carol, who was born in Japan but grew up in Waipahu. A month after the Nezus opened the restaurant, Carol gave birth to their son Marc, who soon found a second home in Futaba.
"End of the year, we were so busy, literally continuously working 36 hours. So where was Marc? We put a futon in the corner there, and we had him sleeping there," Carol Nezu said, pointing to the back corner of the restaurant.
Marc, now manager of Hy’s Steak House, still helps out his parents once a week. Also pitching in wherever she can is Carol Nezu’s mother, Jane Umeka Miyakado, who "doesn’t want to retire," Carol Nezu said with a laugh.
The decision to close Futaba was made because of "various issues," Carol Nezu said, "but I think it’s about time we leave on a high note." She said the restaurant will close sometime at the end of the month or early February.
Once they are retired, the Nezus look forward to traveling and baby-sitting their first granddaughter, 1-year-old Hayley.
Before they move on, though, the Nezus hope all their old customers can come back one last time to say hello and eat their favorite dishes. That includes their ozoni (New Year’s mochi soup) and signature butterfish misoyaki, which had been discontinued a few years ago due to cost but was recently brought back.
What makes their butterfish special is the authentic preparation: Unlike many other restaurants, which simply smother it with sauce, Futaba marinates the fish for three days before cooking it.
Food made with that sort of care and skill will no doubt be missed by fans of Futaba. The owners will miss their customers, many of whom have become more than just paying patrons.
"I have people who’ve been with us since day one. Now we’re serving the third generation, fourth generation," Carol Nezu said. "My customers are like part of my family. I’ve always treated them as such."