Pretty in Purple

The eggplant is quite an interesting and diverse vegetable. A relative of chili, bell peppers, tomatoes and potatoes, it’s a vegetable that comes in a wide range of hues: white, green, red, orange, black and innumerable shades of purple. Eggplants range in shape from round to oval to long, and from pea to melon in size, depending on the variety.

The eggplant is an Old World nightshade with a history that traces from Africa to India and Southeast Asia, then to Spain, North Africa, Italy and France. Aubergine, its French name, has its roots in Sanskrit.

Eggplant grows well in Hawaii because it likes the warm sunshine, just like its home in tropical Asia. And it’s no wonder that we have lots of ways to eat eggplant in Hawaii because it’s suited to many cooking methods — grilling, baking, sauteing, braising, frying and steaming.

Though eggplant’s vibrancy in the raw is notable, its colorful nature is diminished when cooked. But no matter; it is the texture of eggplant that we prize along with its subtle flavor that can be embellished in so many ways.

The eggplant’s creamy flesh makes for a superb baba ganoush, a Middle Eastern dip of roasted eggplant, garlic and olive oil. Mediterranean flavors such as anchovies, garlic, olives, tomatoes and basil match well with eggplant; ratatouille is an eggplant classic of France. Eggplant is essential to moussaka, a Middle Eastern dish of eggplant and ground lamb, and to Italian eggplant parmigiana. Soy sauce, garlic, ginger, miso, sesame, fish sauce and hoisin are wonderful partners for eggplant’s soft flesh, which acts like a sponge for bold flavor.

Perfect eggplant should have a glossy shine on the outside and feel firm to the touch. A dull or squishy eggplant has passed its peak. If you’re buying a large globe, compare a few and pick the heaviest.

Eggplant should be used soon after picking. They really don’t like cold, so store them in the warmest part of your refrigerator or the coolest spot in your kitchen.

To use, rinse under running water, then trim off the stem. There’s no need to peel eggplant unless it will be made into a soup or puree. This is most easily done after the eggplant is cooked.

If grilling, slice in half lengthwise and always brush the cut side with some olive oil.

Fresh, fully mature eggplant does not need salting. When eggplant has passed its peak and it is spongy and seedy, it will be more bitter and may need 30 minutes or so of salting to draw out any bitterness.

Cold Steamed Spicy Eggplant, 2 Ways

There are two ways I like to prepare cold spicy eggplant: Chinese style and Korean style. Both employ steaming, a simple method that’s low in fat.

To steam, place pieces, whole or halved, in a steamer basket, or place it in a saucepan with an inch of water. Cook until very soft; cool. Remove skin if desired. Then pull the eggplant into long strips or cut with a knife.

Each recipe below makes enough sauce for about 2 pounds of eggplant. 

"The Chinese Cookbook," by Virginia Lee, is the inspiration for this recipe, which I’ve used for years. I like to double or triple the amount and keep this sauce in the refrigerator to use on other vegetables, such as spinach, chard, bok choy or salad greens. 

CHINESE-STYLE SPICY EGGPLANT

3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
Salt, to taste
1-1/2 teaspoons dry sherry or shao xing wine (optional)
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable or corn oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, toasted

Combine soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, salt, sherry and sesame oil.

Heat oil in a small saucepan over high heat. Add garlic and ginger; cook for 10 seconds, then stir in soy sauce mixture. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat; cool.

Pour sauce over eggplant just before serving; sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Spicy Korean table sauce drizzled over shredded steamed eggplant is so simple to make. The recipe is from my cookbook "A Korean Kitchen." Again, this is a sauce to make and have handy in the refrigerator. 

SPICY TABLE SAUCE

2 tablespoons kochujang (Korean chili pepper paste)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds

In bowl, place all ingredients except sesame seeds. Whisk together until well combined. Sprinkle sesame seeds over top.

Nutritional information unavailable.