Kakaako’s tasty eatery choices predated hipness

When it comes to good eats in Kakaako, most of the press has gone to the area that, for the sake of quick identification, I’m going to call SoHa, south of Halekauwila Street. It can be distilled more specifically to the stretch between Keawe and Coral streets, south of Auahi or south of Pohukaina, but "SoHi" or "SoPo" doesn’t roll off the tongue quite as well.

Never mind that for the longest time, NoHa was already home to a great concentration of mom-and-pop eateries and diners including Tsukenjo Lunch House, Karen’s Kitchen, Max & Lucy’s and Ah-Lang (aka Angry Korean Lady), plus fine establishments such as The Mandarin and La Cucina.

As development continues at a brisk pace, there’s been plenty of concern over issues such as traffic flow and infrastructure, and who stands to win or lose. No doubt the restaurants are most likely to emerge as winners, as a flood of construction workers seek out places for quick sustenance. Cool factor optional.

PATTAYA

I’m leery of businesses that look like hostess or strip bars on the outside. Pattaya always appeared like a place to avoid … until the photographs went up outside. They advertise takeout lunch 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays to Fridays that feature a range of Thai stir fries and curries.

There’s nothing like food to quell any fears. So, I walked in to find a Thai karaoke bar with a welcoming staff that invites potential customers to sample a few dishes from the hot table planted right inside the doorway. The dishes range from tom yum soup to noodles, and yellow and Evil curries, at about $8.95 per plate.

These are fine. But if you have the time, it’s best to have them make something for you from scratch. The must-tries include khai jiao, or Thai omelette ($8.95), and the crispy rice salad ($11.95), jasmine rice that’s been deep-fried so it’s texture is similar to granola, then tossed with bean sprouts, green onions, peanuts, cilantro and fish sauce. Spoon the salty mixture into a lettuce leaf for a crunchy treat.

Domestic beer is $2; imports are $4.

At 708 Queen St. Call 597-9121. Food service from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays and 5 p.m. to midnight daily. Visit pattayahi.com. 

HARRY’S CAFE

There are still a lot of mom-and-pops that slide by on charm and nostalgia rather than what’s on the plate. Harry’s Cafe is a winner on both fronts.

It retains the patina of a 1950s diner with a timeless menu of breakfast and local plate lunches.

One of the lures is a sign advertising 99-cent breakfasts. The price is for a combo of ham, a scoop of rice and scrambled egg, available from 5 to 8 a.m.

Wake up later and you’ll find the likes of a spinach, bacon and cheese omelette for $7.95, a "333" three-piece each of pancakes, link sausage and eggs for $9.65, or "222" breakfast of two scoops of rice, bacon strips, link and Portuguese sausage, and eggs for $7.75.

Entree choices are updated daily, but you’ll find the likes of beef ($8.50) or kalbi ($9.95) stew, roast pork ($8.50) or fork-tender shoyu chicken ($8.50) that hits the sweet spot in balancing salty and sweet.

At 1101 Waimanu St. Call 593-7798. Open 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays and 7 a.m. to noon Sundays.

COOKE STREET DINER

I drove past this colorful diner for years, though I never dropped in. I was always en route somewhere else, and it’s just a little bit too far from the Honolulu Star-Advertiser offices to walk to for lunch in the afternoon heat.

The diner is best known for its boneless crispy Korean chicken, and as you would expect, there are such local staples as loco moco, chicken or pork adobo and beef stew, available in miniature or regular portions, at $6.50 to $8.95.

What I didn’t expect was more ambitious entrees such as basa with Provencal sauce ($10.85), the egg-battered fish fillet draped with its sauce of tomatoes, onions and capers, made even richer with the house signature butter gravy. Also on the extravagant end is salmon ($11.75) topped with your choice of miso glaze, garlic butter, butter gravy or teri?yaki sauce, or served plain with lemon on the side.

Plates come with a choice of white or brown (add 50 cents) rice, and mac or tossed salad. If you’ve given up carbs, you can also opt to have all tossed greens with a little bit of kim chee on top.

At 605 Cooke St. Call 597-8080. Open 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays and 6:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.