Islanders thrive in New York City

Local fashion enthusiasts who dream of a New York career need not fear being alone in the big city. Behind the scenes of New York’s fashion industry is a sizable Hawaii contingent that includes fashion show producers, stylists, makeup artists, models and model scouts, some of whom are returning home to share their talent and insight during Hawai‘i Fashion Month.

During model casting Friday for runway shows, Roman Young, director of talent for Wilhelmina Models in New York, said he continues to be excited by the beauty he finds in Hawaii.

"Already, I’ve seen two people who can go to an international level," he said.

One of his biggest finds was Kauai-raised Keke Lindgard, who in her first season, fall 2009, walked more than 35 shows in New York, Milan and Paris, became the face of Gucci eyewear and models for Victoria’s Secret.

"What I like about Hawaii is you don’t get posers," Young said. "If you see a kid carrying a skateboard, it’s because he is a skater, not trying to look like one."

Young will be part of a Sunday panel discussion on the business of fashion, taking place 10 a.m. to noon at the Hawai‘i Convention Center. Tickets are $25 for the event, which will bring together fashion professionals from here and New York to talk about the industry and ways to move it forward in Hawaii.

Other panelists are fashion show producer Lynne O’Neill, Opening Ceremony vice president of branding and retail development Jacky Tang, Hawaii-raised jewelry and accessories designer and Parsons New School of Design instructor Bliss Lau, and Toronto-based fashion instructor and artist Henry Navarro.

Although Young regularly travels around the world in search of new faces, he said technology has sped up the process.

"We live in a digital world so now I can find people on Instagram or Facebook."

On the downside, he said that when people do email photos, "I don’t trust them, I tell them to send videos," he said, recalling his start in the industry when prospective models had to send in photos that for the most part were not manipulated.

"We didn’t have such things as Photoshop and digital filters."

Also at Friday’s casting session were Big Island native Bobby Gutierrez and stylist Don Sumada, who tapped 20 local designers to create looks for the "Get Out!" swim and surf wear showcase happening Saturday.

Sumada took a chance on New York in the 1980s. Enrolling at the Fashion Institute of Technology was his excuse to get out of Hawaii.

"Back then, people who left Hawaii always came back, but I knew I wanted to stay in New York. I’m sure it had a lot to do with naivete, because if you don’t know what can go wrong, you don’t get bogged down by fear. I assumed I was gonna be a buyer for Bloomingdale’s," he said.

Luckily for Sumada, a lot went right. After graduation he saw a job posting for an intern and ended up working with famed stylist Patti Wilson.

"I did anything and everything, including picking up her dry cleaning. I was young and happy to do it. Everything around her was so glamorous."

What followed was about a decade working for Paul Smith, who gave him the freedom to develop his talent before he was able to branch out on his own in 1995.

Gutierrez spent eight years as a makeup artist in Los Angeles before joining the Wilhelmina talent agency’s L.A. office, eventually transferring to the New York office, where he now works in image and artist management, helping young musicians hone their image. Among his clients are Sharaya J, Ruby Rose and Iggy Azalea.

"For musicians today, fashion is part of the package, what draws people to them. They already have so much behind them. They’re driven, they’re talented. They were always the hustlers, the kids who made things happen. Ruby Rose is a boxer, a graffiti artist, actress and model.

"We don’t change their image, but we do fine-tune their image with more exclusive designers that fit with their brand."

As to how to make fashion work in Hawaii, Young believes it will take a lot more support from state government, as has happened during the course of Gov. Neil Abercrombie’s administration with its push to increase fashion exports.

"You need someone to tell people this is important because fashion doesn’t exist in a vacuum," Young said. "You need designers, but you also need a system that supports their work."

HAWAI’I FASHION MONTH HIGHLIGHTS
Events are free, except where noted.

FRIDAY
At Hawai’i Convention Center

» 3 p.m.: Kauai Art Factory, a collective of designers and artists from the Garden Isle land on Oahu to show their latest work. The designers include Gypsy Rain, Chez Chanterelle and Bikini 808.

» 6:15 p.m.: "Art of Fashion: The Best of Neiman Marcus," a preview of resort collections from some of the world’s best designers, straight from the runways of New York, Milan and Paris.

» 7:30 p.m.: KINI and DINKO launch, by "Project Runway" Season 13 finalist Kini Zamora and Dinko Satta, who will unveil their much-anticipated Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

SATURDAY

» 1 p.m.: "Get Out!" showcase of active, swim and surf wear from featured designers, including Naissance, the Japanese line by Takashi Kumagai, and Tsu.ya, the line of active wear by Olympic gold medal figure skater Kristi Yamaguchi.

» 3 p.m.: Conscious Designers Hawaii, a coalition of Hawaii designers dedicated to eco- and socially conscious clothing, will make its runway debut. Featured designers include Indigo Sage, Love at Dawn, Kahulalea, Tsubaki Hime, Carlous Palmer, Organik, Wooden Wave and Thanh Apostolides.

SUNDAY

» 10 a.m. to noon: "HIFI Connects: The Business of Fashion, Coffee and Dialogue": World-renowned fashion professionals share what goes on behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week and beyond. An international HFX Mentor Panel includes professionals from New York Fashion Week, Opening Ceremony, Parsons School of Design, Wilhelmina Models and more. The cost is $25. Limited capacity. Register online at hificonnects2014.eventbrite.com.

NOV. 20

» 6 to 9 p.m.: Indie Visual List presents "Iconica: Fiber Hawaii Meets Fashion," at Honolulu Museum of Art School.

NOV. 22

» 5 to 9 p.m.: Royal Hawaiian Center presents a fashion show and reception, "Waikiki Roots & Royal Style," in its Royal Grove.

NOV. 29

» 8 a.m. to noon: Art+Flea x OUTFIT x Ward celebrates Small Business Saturday, with vendors offering fashion, jewelry, accessories and more for sale.