Kaimana Farm Cafe gives healthful touch to breakfast, brunch

The way I see it, restaurants in Hawaii largely fall into three camps: the local, the national corporate and the Japan-affiliated, whether the owner is a transplant or the company has Japan ties.

"Sustainability" is the buzzword among progressive local restaurateurs, and farmers are also getting a boost from the Japanese set, where an increasing number of restaurants are touting sustainability and use of organic produce. 

The latest from this group to enter the scene is Kaimana Farm Cafe, in the space on Kapahulu Avenue recently home to Mac Nuts House and Meatball, across from the Safeway complex. 

It’s a small space that is packed on the weekend with those who want to enjoy a healthful brunch. 

Diners who already know how to manage their diets will get it. For others, it will be a learning experience in portion control and managing that "eyes-are-bigger-than-your stomach" syndrome. I’m always mindful that a serving or portion of food should be no bigger than a deck of playing cards, but that didn’t stop me from wishing a slice of quiche was just a little bigger. Sure, I left full, but it was so fluffy and delicious I wanted more. If we can’t control our own appetites, well, it’s good to know someone else is watching out for us.

Those who regularly dine on typical plate lunches can ease into Kaimana Farm Cafe’s offerings by starting with more substantial dishes such as the Pork Kakuni Bowl ($10.90), with the lightly sweetened shoyu pork served over rice with a boiled egg, or the Kaimana Power Bento comprising rice, six handful-size salads, and a choice of a main course of Dijon chicken ($14.80) with just a hint of the mustard, potato croquette ($10.90) or croquette of mashed pumpkin ($11.60) that was nicely crisped on the outside.

Also guaranteed to fill you up are French toast ($11.80) topped with strawberries and caramelized bananas, bagel sandwiches of lox ($7.90) or turkey, ham and egg ($6.80), or eggs Benedict featuring smoked salmon ($9.80), Spam ($8.60), ahi ($9.80) or pork ($9.80).

An Ono Ahi Ahi Sandwich ($12.50) has its share of fans, but local diners are likely to be accustomed to their ahi cooked firm in sandwiches. The fish is only lightly seared here, so it still has the squishy texture of sashimi that blends in too much with the bread for my taste.

Kaimana Farm Cafe’s specialty, a souffle omelet ($9.50), is a beautiful thing, but as light and unsubstantial as meringue. I wanted more of the heft of a traditional egg omelet.

In spite of these minor quibbles, the quality of ingredients is unquestionable. What I like most is the availability of nutritious salads as opposed to the water-filled lettuce and fatty dressed salads most restaurants present. Here, you are offered choices of calcium- and iron-rich hijiki (seaweed), quinoa, beet and quinoa, kale, lotus root, Brussels sprouts, and fruit salads.

A Farm Deli Salad comprising three ($8.95) or four ($12.50) salad choices is perfect for anyone in need of a little holiday season detox.

If you’ve already ordered a healthy plate, there are also pasta salad options. I like the rotini with a light touch of curry.

This is also a place for picking up coffee, lattes and smoothies that, in spite of the ingredient list, whether strawberry-banana or pineapple-mango, are filled mostly with banana. At least the orange-banana ($4.50) has bits of rind in it to add an occasional bright spark.

Also, check out the specials, which recently included a North Shore kale with creamy mushroom sandwich ($10.80), and veggie quiche with carrot-ginger soup ($9.50). These were exceptional. 

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her atnkam@staradvertiser.com.