To mainland readers unfamiliar with Makaha and the contradictions that fuel its reputation, February’s issue of National Geographic offers a good beginner’s guide to the often misunderstood community.
The story, "Pure Hawaiian," by John Lancaster, weaves the history of Hawaii, the people who live on the west side of Oahu, and surfing into a narrative that won’t surprise anyone who lives here.
The beauty and the warmth of the community have often been cast against a reputation of intense localism. The stretch of coastline from Waianae to Kaena Point is a place of contrasts.
Homeless camps on gorgeous beaches. Soaring crime in neighborhoods where aloha is a way of life. Poverty among hardworking, generous people.
But Lancaster, a veteran foreign correspondent with solid experience in South Asia and the Middle East, largely gets it right. And he doesn’t shy away from issues of Native Hawaiian sovereignty or thinly veiled threats from locals who advise him to tread carefully.
He’s an outsider who knows he’s an outsider.
"Pure Hawaiian" includes the requisite tribute to legendary waterman Richard "Buffalo" Keaulana — what story about Makaha would be complete without him? — but Lancaster’s better portrait is the story of Sheldon Paishon, a young man with a tortured past and dreams of becoming a professional surfer.
As Lancaster paints him, Paishon is the tragic face of Makaha. He grew up homeless at times. His mother was depressed, his father smoked "ice" and his classmates teased him for his mildewed clothes. He ran with the wrong crowd, with predictable results.
But Paishon could surf like few others. If he escapes his past, it will likely be with a surfboard under his feet.
National Geographic paired Lancaster’s story with photographs by Paul Nicklen, who said he spent two weeks at Makaha getting to know the residents before he pulled out his camera.
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On the Net:
» Read "Pure Hawaiian" at ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2015/02/hawaiian-renaissance/lancaster-text.
