Fruitful season of lilikoi inspires drinks, desserts

It’s been a good season for lilikoi, judging from the bags of fruit I’ve been given in the last couple of months by my suppliers, who at this time of year are my very best friends.

I’ve been dutifully cutting open the fruit, grinding and straining the pulp and storing the resulting puree in the refrigerator. Often I’ll strain out some of the pure juice first (makes great cocktails). But even after baking a big batch of lilikoi cake for the holidays (and consuming many cocktails), I made it into February with a store of puree. And then a few more bags of fruit were delivered.

This coincided nicely with the appearance in The New York Times of a recipe for lemon bars made with olive oil. Tip: If ever you are in need of new uses for lilikoi, most recipes for baked goods using lemon can be converted; just use less sugar and perhaps add a shot of vanilla.

This formula is inspired by the Times’ recipe (thank you very much). The crust is basic shortbread made with flour, butter and powdered sugar, but with the addition of lemon zest. You can leave that out if you hate zesting, but it really does pump up the flavor. The topping is thickened on the stove-top, then poured over the baked crust and returned to the oven to set.

P.S.: If you don’t have your own lilikoi vine or a friendly supplier, try Chinatown markets, natural food stores or farmers markets. The season is waning, though. R. Field Wine Co. sells frozen puree if you can’t get fresh.

LILIKOI BARS WITH OLIVE OIL

Crust:
» 1-1/4 cups flour
» 1/2 cup powdered sugar
» 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
» 1/4 teaspoon salt
» 1/2 cup butter, cut in cubes

» Topping:
» 1 cup lilikoi (passion fruit) puree (see note)
» 1 cup sugar
» 3 large eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
» 3 teaspoons cornstarch
» 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
» 1/4 cup butter
» 1/4 cup olive oil
» 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 9-by-9-inch baking pan with sheet of parchment long enough to extend over 2 sides of pan.

To make crust: Whisk flour, sugar, zest and salt. Cut in butter to make a crumbly dough. Dough should hold together when pressed with fingers; if dry, gradually work in up to 1 tablespoon olive oil. Press dough into bottom of prepared pan. Bake until light brown, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make filling: In saucepan, whisk lilikoi puree, sugar, eggs and yolks, and cornstarch. Heat over medium until bubbling and thickened, about 5 minutes. Don’t overcook or mixture could thin out again.

Strain into bowl. Add vanilla, butter and oil; whisk to melt butter. Pour filling over baked crust. Return to oven 10 to 15 minutes, until set.

Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until well chilled and firm. Lift edges of parchment to remove contents from pan, then cut into bars. Sprinkle with powdered sugar just before serving (the sugar will be absorbed into topping after a few minutes, and the bars will lose their snowy look).

Nutritional information unavailable.

Note: To puree lilikoi, cut fruit in half and scoop out pulp. Place in blender and puree to break up the small sacs around the seeds. Strain to remove bits of seeds. It will take 12-14 fruit, depending on size, to get 1 cup.

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