Traveling with my family means breakfast in the hotel room. It saves money, time and bother. In Tokyo on a recent vacation, my husband and I followed tradition, shopping each evening for tidbits to set aside for morning.
For me it was almost always tamagoyaki — a rolled egg omelet (literally “egg grilled”). In the U.S. tamagoyaki mostly shows up as a thin slice atop nigiri sushi, but in Tokyo shops it is sold in slabs with various flavorings. You slice it yourself to reveal the delicate layers rolled inside.
A single-serve takeout version made a high-protein breakfast for about a dollar. I could warm it up on a plate perched atop the water kettle in our room.
I became obsessed with making this at home, which seemed a possibility after watching a few YouTube videos, even though tamagoyaki is a tad tricky. You have to roll up the omelet as it cooks, then add more layers of egg and roll several more times. Japanese chefs accomplish this with chopsticks and skillful tossing of the pan. Beginners might need two wide spatulas (I have graduated to two small spatulas).
For authenticity this dish requires a special square or rectangular pan with a nonstick surface and straight sides about 1-1/2 inches high (stocked locally at Don Quijote and Marukai stores for $10 to $20). It can be made in a regular round skillet, but you won’t get the nice straight sides.
Tamagoyaki is often made with sugar and turns out quite sweet. I have opted for a more savory version that uses mirin instead, and furikake for a slight salty edge.
Not-Too-Sweet Tamagoyaki with Furikake
» 4 large eggs (or 3 jumbo eggs)
» 1/4 cup chicken broth
» 3 tablespoons mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine)
» 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
» 2 tablespoons furikake (dried seaweed flakes)
» Beat eggs with broth and mirin.
Place a square or rectangular tamagoyaki pan (see description above) over medium-low heat and coat generously with oil. Pour a thin layer of egg mixture into pan. Egg should sizzle and bubble a little, but if it seems to be cooking too fast, lift the pan off the heat. Break any bubbles. Lift egg to let runny parts fill in underneath. Sprinkle with furikake.
When egg is nearly set but still wet, use a spatula to loosen edges. Carefully lift omelet on one side and fold over a strip about 2 inches wide. Continue folding over the omelet to make a roll at the other end of the pan.
Coat pan with more oil, including beneath the cooked portion. Pour another layer of egg into pan, letting some run under first roll. Sprinkle with furikake. Fold over first roll and keep rolling to incorporate new layer of egg.
Repeat once or twice to use up egg mixture.
Turn omelet onto plate and cut into slices or cubes. Serves 2 as side dish.
Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 330 calories, 24 g fat, 4.5 g saturated fat, 375 mg cholesterol, 250 mg sodium, 14 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 6 g sugar, 13 g protein
Time for a break
Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write “By Request,” Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.
“By Request” is going on hiatus for two months while I work on some other projects. I’ll see you back here in September.
