Southern barbecue and Latin specialties come together

Summer is time for barbecues, but not everyone has the luxury of a backyard when cravings hit. Given the advancing influx of high-rises in the Ward/Kakaako environs, Billy’s Killer Southern BBQ seems well placed, having planted itself on Queen Street, north of the Ward Entertainment Center between Cummins and Kamakee streets.

Billy Zimmerman’s food truck/trailer initially appeared in Kaimuki two years ago before opening in Mapunapuna, but things got interesting about four months ago when he teamed with Alex Arango to open the Queen Street location.

Arango’s specialty is Latin cuisine, which gives diners a surprise 2-in-1 option. It was more than I expected when I sauntered up to the food truck the first time.

Why does barbecue get top billing?

“Because Billy owns the truck,” said Arango, who grew up in Colombia and worked his way throughout South America before heading to New York and Martha’s Vineyard, then arriving here. Also the “Chief Empanada Officer” behind Mami’s Empanadas, he’s known for the pastries that have become the other best-seller at the food truck.

You’ll probably see a line forming around the truck at lunch time. I would venture that about half the crowd is there for Billy’s ribs, Southern-style sweet tea and other BBQ specialties, while the other half is lined up for empanadas.

Whether that barbecue is truly “killer” is in the eye of the beholder. Hailing from Texas, Zimmerman serves up that state’s sweet, red, tomato-based sauce, familiar because it is universally loved and has been copied many times over by food processors and restaurant chains. Zimmerman’s sauce is punched up with cinnamon, but the sweet, sour and smoky notes that we associate with Western-style barbecue are all there, slathered on fall-off-the-bone, fork-tender pork ribs ($9.50 lunch/$15 dinner) served with a scoop of white or dirty rice, green salad and a choice of baked beans or cole slaw.

The tenderness of the meat is especially important because you’ll probably want to use a fork to keep your hands clean. Parking in the area is limited, and there is only one small table that seats two under the blazing sun, so you’ll probably have to drive off to a preplanned destination before enjoying your meal. No wipes were offered, and napkins are no substitute when it comes to sticky fingers slathered in barbecue sauce.

As for that sauce, some readers tend to get up in arms about what is true to a region and what is not. Don’t get too hung up on style. As one Alabaman who was enjoying a couple of sliders said, the idea of a common regional recipe is a myth.

“There’s no one recipe for Southern barbecue. Everyone just makes their own sauce the way they like it,” he said.

Due to the price difference between lunch and dinner, I suggest starting with lunch first to determine whether you like what’s offered. Other plates comprise barbecue chicken, pulled pork and smoked brisket, all at the same price as the rib plate, which is my favorite.

A pair of sliders (barbecue brisket and pulled pork) are offered for $5.75, topped Texas-style with cole slaw that’s drier than most of us are familiar with, and therefore more cabbage-y. I happen to enjoy the crunch as well as the health aspect of reduced mayo and fat.

The menu also lists homemade burgers starting at $6.50, and hot dogs, including Billy’s barbecued bacon-wrapped gourmet hot dogs ($5.95 and $7.95) in two sizes, but these aren’t always available.

Arango’s street-style Latin cuisine starts with homey empanadas, at $2 each or four for $7 if you want to try a variety at once. He was out of sofrito chicken when I visited, which tells me that might be the most popular. And while it wouldn’t have been my first choice, he sold me on the perico combination of scrambled egg, scallion, cilantro and tomato, as delicious and comforting as a scrambled egg breakfast. It’s enhanced by a red aji sauce of tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro and vinegar, the South American equivalent of Mexican salsa.

A beef and potato empanada, reminiscent of Indian samosas that influenced Portuguese cuisine, is also served with aji sauce.

Arango’s ceviche is not the Mexican-style lime-dressed fish most familiar here. Arango’s Ecuadorean version has the shrimp swimming in a honey-sweetened red chili and tomato sauce, with slivers of onions and slices of green, yellow and red bell pepper. Because of the sweetness, the heat really sneaks up on you until your tongue is burning.

He also serves a Cubano ($8) true to the sandwich’s roots. It’s a Cuban interpretation of a grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich, featuring honey ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard, pressed in French bread for a mess-free hand-held meal.

Chances are you won’t need dessert, but in case you do, arroz con leche ($4), or Mexican rice pudding, comes topped with either lilikoi sauce or dulce de leche, the latter for those who prefer going the decadent route with a taste of milky caramel.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.

BITE SIZE

Gallery Bar offers no-fuss picnic fare

Summer’s here and Hyatt Place (not to be confused with the Hyatt Regency) is offering a new twist on the sandwich for Waikiki beachgoers in search of a lunch or snack upgrade.

The pretzel bread sandwiches ($7) are a turkey provolone, savory ham and cheese, spinach and feta, Black Angus hot dog and a smoked sausage infused with cheddar cheese and peppercorns, available with such condiment options as basic ketchup, mustard, honey mustard and my favorite, a creamy pesto aioli.

For those who want a no-fuss picnic at the beach, Kapiolani Park or Honolulu Zoo, an insulated picnic bag packed with two sandwiches, two bottles of water and two bags of potato chips is $30.

The new sandwiches will be available at the hotel’s Gallery Bar through the end of August.

Those on site can also enjoy more Gallery Bar selections such as a portobello mushroom soup with brie, tomato bruschetta and an array of fab desserts.

Hyatt Place Waikiki Beach is at 175 Paoakalani Ave. at Kuhio Avenue. Validated valet parking at Paoakalani entrance. Call 922-3861.

Bite Size documents the new, the small, the unsung.