Sauerbraten, red cabbage balance sour and sweet

Sour tastes are underrated, but when balanced well with sweet ingredients, the contrasts in flavor can be spectacular. Case in point: the German dishes sauerbraten and braised red cabbage.

Sauerbraten, or “sour roast,” originated as a means of turning tough wild elk and deer into something delicious. Creative cooks brined the meats in a flavorful spiced marinade for days, then braised until tender.

“The meat is rich and flavorful, and this recipe can feed our family of three for days because you just need a few slices of it,” said communication consultant Wally Zimmermann of his version of the dish.

Sauerbraten is beloved for its strong flavors, absorbed from the marinade. But it is not a last-minute meal, as it must marinate for days before braising.

Still, despite the lengthy preparation process and long ingredient list, even a beginning cook can make tasty sauerbraten.

Start with one of the cheapest cuts of beef, a bottom or rump roast, or venison from a hunter friend. Then create the marinade: Cider vinegar and dry red wine are the sour notes. Then there are numerous spices — some may be unfamiliar to Hawaii taste buds, and others are most often used in desserts — such as black peppercorns, juniper berries, mustard seeds, cloves, allspice, mace, dill, bay leaves, salt, ground ginger and cinnamon. Sweet elements come from sugar and a few vegetables: onions, carrots, celery and leeks.

You can decide how to braise the meat. The stove takes about two hours; the oven, four hours; or a slow cooker, six hours, to achieve a meat that is fork-tender with a complex depth of flavor.

The gravy uses the marinade and a surprise ingredient: gingersnap cookies. The crushed cookies dissolve and thicken the gravy, and add a distinctive flavor that holds up well to the strong marinade.

Zimmermann, 71, grew up in an all-German neighborhood in the near north side of Chicago, where his grandparents settled after leaving northern Germany. In fact, the neighborhood was so ethnic that in school, Zimmermann was taught English in the morning and German language in the afternoon.

He moved to Hawaii 35 years ago to work at KHON-TV and now lives in Kaimuki with his wife, Jolie. (Until his arrival, his only experience of rice was the instant variety, which he did not like.)

“My grandmother would only cook German food, and on Sundays she would serve a spread: sauerbraten with boiled potatoes, potato salad, egg noodles or spaetzle” (small homemade dumplings boiled in water), Zimmermann said. “There would be braised red cabbage and two types of sauerkraut, so three types of cabbage on the table!”

This summer, Zimmermann taught his 19-year-old daughter, Dawson, how to make sauerbraten and red cabbage.

His version of the cabbage is crunchier than most, punctuated with bacon and tart Granny Smith apples that add complexity to the flavor profile.

One of Zimmermann’s secrets is to soak the shredded cabbage in cold water and ice cubes prior to cooking. The water cleans the cabbage, and remaining water droplets add moisture when the cabbage is cooked in the bacon fat. As with sauerbraten, red wine and vinegar provide the sour notes. Zimmermann says the dish tastes even better the next day.

A simple side dish of potato salad completes the meal.

Wally’s Sauerbraten

» 3 to 4 pounds beef bottom (also called rump) roast
» 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
» 1 teaspoon ground ginger (optional)
» 3 tablespoons butter
» 2-1/2 cups diced onions
» 2-1/2 cups diced carrots
» 1-1/4 cups diced celery, including leaves
» 1 cup leek greens, washed and chopped into 2-inch pieces
» 2 tablespoons flour
» 2 cups reserved marinade
» 1/2 cup water
» 1/3 cup sugar

Marinade:
» 1 cup dry red wine
» 1 cup cider vinegar
» 2 cups cold water
» 1 onion, thinly sliced
» 1-1/2 tablespoons juniper berries (coarsely crushed)
» 2 tablespoons black peppercorns (coarsely crushed)
» 4 bay leaves
» 1 teaspoon coarse salt
» 1 cinnamon stick, broken
» 1/2 tablespoon whole cloves
» 1/2 teaspoon allspice
» 1/2 teaspoon mace
» 1/2 teaspoon dried dill seeds or leaves
» (3 tablespoons pickling spice mix and 1 tablespoon juniper berries may be used in place of the other spices)

Gravy:
» 1/2 cup water
» 1 tablespoon flour
» 3/4 cup gingersnap cookies, crushed

In 3-quart saucepan on high, combine marinade ingredients and bring to boil. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

In large ceramic or glass bowl big enough to fit meat and marinade, place roast. (Do not use aluminum or cast iron, as it will react with the acid in the marinade.) Cover meat with cooled marinade, which should reach at least halfway up sides of roast. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate 4 days. Turn twice daily.

After 4 days, remove meat and strain marinade through fine sieve. Refrigerate liquid and discard spices and onion.

Pat roast dry, then rub with vegetable oil and ground ginger if using.

In heavy 5-quart Dutch oven on high, heat butter until bubbling stops, about 4 minutes. Add the roast and brown on all sides, turning every 2 minutes to prevent burning. Transfer to platter and set aside.

In same Dutch oven, add onions, carrots, celery and leeks. Cook over medium heat 5 to 8 minutes until soft and light brown. Sprinkle with flour and stir 2 to 3 minutes until flour begins to color. Add marinade, water and sugar. Bring to a boil.

Return meat to pot, cover tightly and simmer on low for at least 2 hours, until tender. Other options: Bake in covered pot at 325 degrees for 4 hours, or cook in slow cooker on low for 6 hours.

When meat is tender, remove it to a platter and cover with foil.

To make gravy, pour liquid from pot into large measuring cup and skim fat. Gravy requires about 2-1/2 cups. If there is not enough, add vegetable, chicken or beef broth.

Tip for crushing gingersnaps: Place in plastic bag and pound bag with a pan or rolling pin.

In saucepan, combine liquid with water, flour and gingersnaps crumbs, and cook over medium, stirring about 10 minutes until gravy thickens.

Strain gravy through fine sieve, pressing down hard with wooden spoon to force through as much vegetables and crumbs as possible. Return to pan to simmer until ready to serve.

Slice roast and pour gravy over. Serves 6 to 8.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 8 servings): 570 calories, 25 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 160 mg cholesterol, 550 mg sodium, 31 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 15 g sugar, 50 g protein

Red Cabbage

» 1 small head red cabbage
» 2 slices bacon
» 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
» 1 onion, sliced
» 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced
» 1/2 cup balsamic or red wine vinegar
» 1 cup chicken broth (or beef or vegetable broth)
» 1/4 cup red wine
» Salt and pepper, to taste

Core cabbage and cut into quarters, then slice into 1/4-inch slices. Place in bowl and cover with iced water.

In large pot with a cover, fry bacon until crisp. Remove and chop, leaving bacon fat in pan. Add vegetable oil and onions, and cook over medium about 3 minutes. Add drained cabbage, apple, vinegar, broth and wine. Cover and cook 25 minutes. For softer cabbage, add 20 minutes cooking time.

Add bacon bits and cook additional 5 minutes.

Add salt and pepper to taste and serve. Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 8 servings and not including salt to taste): 150 calories, 9 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 16 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 10 g sugar, 3 g protein

Potato Salad

» 1 pound (about 6) white or waxy potatoes
» 1 tablespoon salt for boiling water
» 5 tablespoons white wine vinegar
» 2 teaspoons sugar
» 2 teaspoons smooth European-style or tarragon mustard
» 1/8 cup beef broth
» 5 tablespoons vegetable oil
» 1/2 teaspoon salt
» 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
» 1 red onion, minced; reserve 1 tablespoon for garnish
» 1 bunch (about 1/2 cup) chives, chopped; reserve 1 tablespoon for garnish

Boil potatoes in salted water 40 to 60 minutes, or until tender.

In large bowl, mix vinegar, sugar, mustard, broth, oil, salt and white pepper.

Peel potatoes while warm and slice into rounds. Add to bowl. Add onions and chives, and mix. Let marinate at least 15 minutes before serving.

Garnish with onions and chives and serve. Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 8 servings): 130 calories, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 450 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 3 g sugar, 1 g protein

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.

Lynette Lo Tom is interested in passionate cooks who keep traditions alive. Contact her at 275-3004.