Mastering the poached egg easier than you might think

I was in Japan a couple of weeks ago, and as always I had to admire that nation’s commitment to the raw egg. We are nervous about raw eggs here in the U.S., with good reason, but in Japan a bowl of hot rice with raw egg is a luxurious, creamy dish. They do have it right that egg yolks are their own rich sauce. I could eat this simple dish every day and be happy. It reminded me of how good simple feels.

The poached egg is the closest Americans get to drippy yolks. As an adult, I’ve come to realize that mastering the skill of properly poaching an egg is a game changer. I’ve had plenty of overcooked and messy poached eggs. Yet it really is so simple.

Here is my procedure: First, crack the egg over a fine sieve (and over a bowl or sink). This allows most "looser" whites to drop away from the firmer part of the white. Drop the egg into a small, sloped bowl or a measuring cup.

Bring a small saucepan of water (at least 3 inches of water) to a boil, then turn down the heat and wait until the boil reduces to a simmer. Slide in egg close to the surface and let it sit. After 3 minutes or so the egg whites are just set, indicating it’s done. Remove it with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. I can cook two or three eggs at once this way, and if you’re making food for a crowd, make them beforehand and store in the fridge.

By the way, there’s no reason to put vinegar or salt in the water unless you’re trying to flavor the egg. It doesn’t actually help with the poaching process. What does help is using fresh eggs, which don’t have loose whites and cook up neatly.

For my recipe of spaghetti with lilikoi and poached egg, the lilikoi was an afterthought, and I was pleased at how well the dish turned out. I’ve substituted lilikoi for lemon in sweet dishes, so I thought, why not here? There’s just a touch; all you need for a little acidic balance in the dish.

Recipes like this require little measuring and more tasting. You’ll be happiest when you figure out the right ratio of salt to garlic to suit your palate. No lilikoi? Substitute a lemon, just less. Find an aged Gouda if you’re into cheesy funk.

This spaghetti is its own form of egg rice: simple flavors central to the dish, comforting and artistic all at once as that yolk leaves a velvet trail.

SPAGHETTI WITH LILIKOI AND POACHED EGG

1 pound spaghetti
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons fresh lilikoi concentrate
4 to 6 eggs
Parmesan or Romano cheese

Cook spaghetti according to package directions in salted water. While it is boiling, heat a saucepan of water for eggs, and mince garlic.

In a large pan over medium, melt butter and add olive oil. Add garlic and cook until golden, stirring regularly. Add salt and stir.

As soon as spaghetti is al dente, pull noodles from water and place directly into skillet with butter and garlic. Stir to coat. Add lilikoi and stir. Serve topped with egg and grated cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 6 servings and not including grated cheese): 500 calories, 19 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 205 mg cholesterol, 1,000 mg sodium, 61 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 18 g protein

Mariko Jackson blogs at thelittlefoodie.com.