Jimmy Buffet’s: Mixed drinks and kitsch

The status of Jimmy Buffett’s Restaurant and Bar is rather nebulous at the moment, but that shouldn’t deter fans with a beachy "here today, gone to Maui" point of view. If you’re a Parrothead, as Buffett fans call themselves, wanting to waste away in Margaritaville, or just someone looking for something casual and comfortable, you might as well pop in to the joint while it’s still there.

It was announced in July that Maui Brewing Co. will take over the space next year and plans to remodel it and convert it into a brewpub in cooperation with Outrigger Enterprises.

Last year, JB Waikiki LLC took over operations, continuing to operate the restaurant as a Jimmy Buffett-themed space.

In the meantime, Buffett’s stands as a convenient, fun place to pop in for a drink and a snack if you’re visiting Waikiki, especially with its two happy hours a day.

THE EXPERIENCE

There’s no pretense about Jimmy Buffett’s. It’s cheesy fun.

The interior is a mishmash of island themes, and it fairly drowns in tiki tokens. It’s a fairly large space, with walls that imitate hardened lava, as if you’re in a cave on a volcanic island. One set of booths looks like it’s been carved into the rock — for drinking the hard stuff, one supposes. Another set looks like it’s being swallowed up by a wave, so you can get tubed while you’re getting lubed.

The bar is done up in classic tiki style, with faux palm trees and a fake shark hanging overhead.

There’s a stage for music, which is scheduled almost nightly, but on afternoon pau hana patrol, there was the usual collection of flat screens tuned to sports.

It might all seem a bit tacky, but after a while you come to appreciate the blue, oceanlike floor and the directional signs pointing out how far away other famous beaches are — as if to tell you not to bother going, since you’re already in paradise.

The friendly, helpful service is certainly a plus.

THE DRINKS

Buffett’s has some nice offerings during happy hour, with $2.50 off all beer and $3 off margaritas. "Boat drinks" such as mai tais and pina coladas are discounted by $3.

Since the bar should be a beachhead for margarita mavens, I tried one of the six types offered: a Passionfruit Party Time Margarita, with gold tequila, triple sec and a puree of passion fruit. It went down easy and smooth, with a dusting of li hing mui powder on the rim adding delightful sweetness on the tongue afterward.

The bartender also offered up a Bluebuerry Barracuda Mojito, with its muddled mint giving a cool aftertaste to the blueberry-infused rum and coconut-flavored liquors. I’ve taken to eating blueberries a lot lately — all the healthy diets seem to list them — so that’s how I could rationalize having a second mixed drink. Harsher drinks sometimes leave me with a unsettled feeling in both stomach and head. That didn’t happen this time.

THE FOOD

The Volcano Nachos are a featured happy-hour item, offered for $12.95 ($16.95 at other times). The name is well deserved: Order it if you’re going with a couple of friends, because it’s a mountain of house-made chips sprinkled with chili, salsa and cheese, served with three dipping sauces. It’s plenty filling and plenty satisfying.

We also had the Gulf Coast Coconut Shrimp ($14.50; half-price at happy hour), served with a tasty mango dipping sauce. The shrimp were sliced lengthwise from the head about three-quarters down and spread like butterfly wings, enabling the shrimp to carry lots of the coconut batter. At first I thought it might be too much, thinking the flavor of the coconut might overwhelm the shrimp, but the combination worked fine — especially since the dish was so well prepared, not overcooked or greasy.

The Fried Calamari & Maui Gold Pineapple ($12.95; half-price at happy hour) was perhaps a bit oilier than it needed to be, but it did prove the versatility of pineapple. I’ve had it plain, roasted on a spit in Mexico and stir-fried in sweet-and-sour pork, but this was the first time I’ve had it battered and deep-fried, and it still was good. I do think the dish could have used more of it.

THE VERDICT

Jimmy Buffett’s may not be around long enough for locals to get nostalgic about it, but it’s worth a visit if you’re in the area, just to see what the fuss was all about when it first opened in 2009. It’s laid-back and doesn’t take itself seriously — just the kind of place for taking a break.