Swells pound east shores; more big surf expected

A north-northwest swell that generated high surf across much of the state is expected to diminish today but another swell from the north is expected to follow on Wednesday.

An advisory for the north and west shores of Niihau and Kauai and the north shores of Oahu, Molokai and Maui was canceled Monday afternoon.

However, a high-surf advisory for east shores of Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Maui and Hawaii island remains in effect at least through 6 a.m. today due to easterly tradewinds that continue to drive swells.

Forecasters predict surf of 5 to 8 feet along affected shores today.

The National Weather Service cautioned the public to expect strong breaking waves, shore break, and strong longshore and rip currents that could make swimming difficult and dangerous. Beachgoers are advised to exercise caution and heed all advice given by safety officials.

Another northwest swell is expected Wednesday night and Thursday, followed by a larger northwest swell that may produce warning-level surf along north and west shores over the weekend, the weather service said.

Meanwhile, a high-pressure system to the northeast is expected to push farther away from the state today as a cold front approaches from the northwest.

Forecasters predict winds will weaken considerably today.

A drier air mass over the island chain will limit shower activity, with showers most likely during the afternoon hours across interior areas.

The weakening cold front will move over Kauai and stall out tonight and then slowly dissipate on Wednesday as high pressure builds to the north of the islands.

Tradewinds are expected to increase into the light to moderate range late tonight and Wednesday.

Another, stronger cold front is forecast to reach Kauai from the northwest on New Year’s Day, spreading east down the island chain through Saturday morning. The front will bring a slight increase to showers.

KOKUA LINE:

Christine Donnelly is on vacation. Kokua Line will return Jan. 4.