Now’s a good time to give fruity merlot another go

Merlot is a red grape variety that has seen its share of ups and downs in popularity in California over the years. In years past, because of its fruit-forward, supple qualities, merlot was often blended with cabernet sauvignon to round out hard edges and assertive tannins for the production of a more delicious and approachable wine.

Somewhere along the line, someone had the brilliant idea to produce merlot on its own in California, which created quite a sensation and caught the fancy of a surprisingly wide spectrum of wine drinkers. At least part of merlot’s meteoric success can be attributed to mainstream renditions that featured a wonderful fruitiness crafted in a supple, easy-drinking style.

The growth of merlot seemed to reverse overnight, however. As sales plummeted, there were countless stories of grape growers changing over their acreage of merlot vines to other grape varieties. It became hard to find a good California merlot, especially at a good price.

At the same time, the top merlot-based red wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank continued to rise in demand and price. Chateau Petrus and Le Pin, for instance, were and are still generally regarded as the two most esteemed (and expensive) wines of the entire Bordeaux region.

I think their success motivated several of the top merlot producers in California to create standout wines comparable to what was being produced in Bordeaux.

Take Selene Merlot out of Napa Valley, for instance. Winemaker-owner Mia Klein has had an illustrious career in winemaking and consulting for many of the top cabernets in the area. The star-studded list includes Araujo, Dalla Valle, Etude, Palmaz and Spottswoode.

In 1991 Klein began her efforts to create a top-notch California merlot by sourcing grapes from several top Napa Valley sites, including Madrona Ranch and Hyde Vineyard. In 2005 she finally selected the Frediani Vineyard. Her 2012 Selene Merlot “Frediani Vineyard” (about $35 a bottle) is certainly a thoroughbred. Its dark, earthy core is provocative, with old-vine nuances and a seamless, classy texture and superb balance that showcase her masterful touch.

Another of the true standouts from California is the 2012 Neyers Merlot (about $39). The grapes come from their organically farmed estate vineyard that was planted with heirloom merlot in the mid-1990s in soil comprising compacted volcanic ash and lots of rocks. The combination creates a wine bearing the character and structure of an Old World sensibility. I often recommend this wine to those seeking a Napa Valley cabernet-based red, simply because it is so good. Add to that its price tag — note that Napa Valley cabernets typically range from $100 to $150 a bottle — and you will better understand just how much this wine overdelivers for the price.

For a more value-oriented rendition, consider the 2012 Ancient Peaks Merlot (about $18). The grapes in this wine are grown at a 1,000-foot elevation on their estate vineyard in southern Paso Robles.

The vineyard has at least six distinct soil types (including shale and fossilized oyster shells), and the merlot mix that results changes from year to year. This wine embodies lots of ripe fruit with earthy nuances from the soil, and a core and structure developed in cool night temperatures, all at a reasonable price.

Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.