First you hear the name, and it’s hard to forget. What’s that all about? As Honolulu Star-Advertiser writer Nadine Kam revealed in her Dec. 7 review, chef-owner Yoon Kim was born in the year of the rooster — and was also inspired by chivalrous roosters who tend a nest to prove their devotion.
Does devotion make one “dumb”? If so, I approve. Kim’s menu shows devotion — or practiced dedication, if you prefer — to tried-and-true bar/bistro dishes made with quality ingredients and designed, impeccably, to satisfy.
12 S. King St., Downtown;
585-5999
HAPPY HOUR:
3-6 p.m. and 9 p.m.-close, Monday-Friday
>> Sliders, $5
>> Tacos (3), $4.50
>> Bud Light, $4
>> Big Wave IPA, Shock Top, Stella, $4
>> Goose Island IPA, $5
The experience
Dumb Coq and me? We’re besties. I could dine at Dumb Coq every week — and might. Since my first visit last month, I’ve gone back again, and again, and again — and would have taken visiting friends there on another occasion, had the restaurant only been open on Sundays.
Until I ate there, I didn’t realize how much I’d been longing for a Downtown spot that serves prettied up sandwiches, burgers and salads like this.
The spot has a pleasant, open feel, with a wall of windows facing South King Street, and a mix of low and high tables. The bar stretches along one wall, with booth seats opposite.
There’s enough space to sit comfortably, with tables to accommodate couples or larger groups of friends. There’s nothing really remarkable about the furnishings or decor, but overall Dumb Coq feels light and welcoming, and nothing distracts from the tasty menu.
The food
During happy hour, only hamburger sliders ($5 for two) and street-style tacos ($4.50 for three) are offered, but these are sufficiently delicious and filling to introduce you to Dumb Coq’s pleasures.
The sliders are miniature versions of the restaurant’s immensely pleasing full-sized hamburger entree: two rounded, 3-ounce patties of grass-fed beef, topped with applewood bacon bits, red onion, lettuce and a generous wedge of avocado. Everything about this miniburger is honestly delicious, from the beef to the lightly toasted bun.
The tacos are made with chunks of beef, chicken or tofu on small corn tortillas, topped with onion, cilantro and flavorful salsa verde and served on a bed of chopped cabbage (which I pile onto the taco). They are the closest I’ve had in Hawaii to street-cart tacos served in Mexico or California. I find them irresistible: textured and just the right amount of greasy to soften the tortillas, tart from the salsa, and gone in two bites.
I also ordered Dumb Coq’s Moules Frites ($15). While not discounted for happy hour, the plump, fresh mussels and shoestring fries, served with a bowl of buttery wine, garlic and parsley, and a ration of crispy-crusted rustic bread, are great for sharing.
The drink
As with the food here, Dumb Coq hits a sweet spot with its beer, wine and cocktail offerings. Only beers are offered at a pau hana discount, but the wine and cocktails are reasonably priced all night long.
On a previous visit, I enjoyed a crisp, bold white that paired well with Dumb Coq’s Black and Bleu salad, made with sliced chicken, pear, a generous helping of pine nuts, greens, red onion and of course, bleu cheese.
My dining date ordered a Goose Island IPA, $5 during happy hour, and pronounced it just the right amount of bitter to pair with the juicy sliders. A variety of pau hana beer specials are offered, including Bud Light, Stella and Big Wave IPA.
I had a pleasingly sweet-tart, peach-colored Jolly Bear cocktail, made with freshly squeezed lime juice, Absolut Beri Acai, Midori, peach schnapps, pineapple and cranberry juices and a splash of club soda. At $8, it was sufficiently strong and well-flavored to last throughout my date.
The verdict
The Dumb Coq fills a vital niche in Downtown Honolulu — serving attractive sandwiches, salads and drinks at a reasonable price. The restaurant knows its business, and the staff is great. It’s an ideal spot to meet friends for pau hana, early or late.
