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The recent terrorist attacks on the City of Light have not dimmed the resolve of Parisians.
But they have affected the flow of tourists in Paris, particularly during the usually bustling holiday season. Worldwide travel alerts, looming lengthy security delays for travelers and the still-vivid images of the tragic events of Nov. 13 have taken a toll.
But for those captivated by this city’s charm, it also presents an opportunity to see a somewhat less touristy view of Paris, while soaking in all the beauty this city and its residents have to offer.
For eager travelers, much attention has been paid to Paris’ Left Bank, and understandably so: The Left Bank (meaning the southern bank of the River Seine, or La Rive Gauche) is home to Saint Germaine’s spectacular shopping districts, stunning museums and high-end restaurants highlighted in scores of guidebooks for travelers. The Eiffel Tower; Luxembourg Gardens; the Musee d’Orsay with its stunning art collections of Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Cezanne and Edouard Manet; and the bustling Latin Quarter are all Left Bank attractions and on the must-see list of many travelers. At one time the Left Bank was considered the “more affordable” section of Paris, and was home to once-struggling writers and artists including Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. Those days are gone, and for the most part the Left Bank is the choice of many celebrities and well-heeled Americans.
The Right Bank (La Rive Droite) deserves its due. To be sure, the area has its share of tourist spots — the Louvre among them. But tucked along its side streets are less crowded but equally impressive museums, excellent and more affordable neighborhood restaurants, and a slice of life in Paris rich with diversity and character that should not be missed. You will find the city’s Jewish quarter, cobblestone streets steeped in history, and the impressively fluid Le Marais section of the city with a personality all its own.
Paris
Chez Mademoiselle Cafe
16 Rue Charlemagne, 4th arrondissement
75004, Paris
Tel: 01.42. 72. 14.16
Musee Carnavalet
16, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 3rd arrondissement
75003 Paris
Tel: 01 44 59 58 58
carnavalet.paris.fr/en/ museum-carnavalet/hotel-carnavalet
AU Petit Fer a Cheval
30 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th arrondissement
Tel: 01 42 72 47 47
Maison de Ville
15 Rue Rambuteau
75004 Paris
Tel: 01 84 06 76 21
Comptoir des Archives
41 Rue des Archives
75004 Paris
Tel: 01 42 72 12 56
Paris Cab
Car and chauffeur service
Tel: 33 60 76 49 14
Still, those who rely on a steady stream of tourists, from taxi drivers to businesses to vacation rental proprietors, say the steep decline in visitors has meant a drop in business. But their resilience is clear.
Krishna Pahari has spent the past 40 years in Paris, the last 20 of them running a small business, Maison de Ville, selling hats, purses and more from a storefront in Le Marais. These days his customers are predominantly homegrown.
“Before, there were tourists from Japan, Korea, Australia and the United States. Now I see mostly French from parts of Paris,” Pahari said. “People are afraid because of the terrorist attacks. My message to tourists would be: We are here. We live here. We have security here, and we should not be afraid — we should stand together.”
The same holds true for Tim Daoud, who owns and operates Paris Cab, a taxi and chauffeur service in the heart of Paris. The precipitous drop in the number of tourists has resulted in a decline in business of roughly 40 percent, he said.
“It is a catastrophe,” said Daoud, who has owned the business since 2011. “Less tourists, less hotel transportation, less restaurant clients. I believe it will take six months to recover. For us who live here, I would say it psychologically affected us for at least two weeks. But, as they say, life goes on. It has to, right?”
Armed soldiers fronting museums, churches and high-traffic tourist spots do not dampen the spirit or the appetite for life of Parisians lining the streets at cafes, patisseries and brasseries throughout the city. The recent weather has been unseasonably warm and sunny. Children weave by on skateboards, parents shuttle their children in strollers, and clusters of teenagers laugh and shove each other as they make their way past soldiers with assault rifles.
People forget, Pahari says. At least that was the case a year ago after terrorists attacked the offices of French satirical magazine Charlie Hebdo in January and shot and killed a dozen people over a cartoon depicting the prophet Mohammad. Business slowed back then for months, he said, but eventually resumed with a sense of normalcy.
Now the November series of coordinated terrorist attacks has rekindled that fear and tourists are staying away again, he says. His business is down between 30 and 40 percent, he added. But he hopes the New Year will bring better times. “People will forget, I think, like they did after the Charlie attacks,” he says. “France is a country of peace, a country of love. This is what is important.”
The Right Bank
There is indeed much to love about Paris — and the Right Bank. For those interested in experiencing a true taste of Paris’ rich history and culture, the Carnavalet Museum is a must. Musee Carnavalet is housed in two beautiful buildings in the Marais district that feature stunning courtyards, robust collections from the French Revolution, sculptures, miniature replicas of the city and a collection of treasures reflective of Paris’ rich and complicated past, including Marie Antoinette’s personal belongings.
If you’ve had your fill of the pricier Left Bank eateries, skip the famed Les Deux Magot and Brasserie Lipp and try Chez Mademoiselle Cafe at 16 Rue Charlemagne in the 4th arrondissement. You will find few tourists at this neighborhood French bistro. All the ingredients are from surrounding bakeries, open markets and local purveyors just blocks away. It’s where the locals go for French food.
Owner Felix Cohen believes his food is a gift, and one that he is proud to deliver daily.
“For me it’s about giving something good to our customers,” Cohen said. “It’s like making love or giving something special to someone. This is a place where you want to be the only one to know about it. It is that good.”
From the outside the tiny, unassuming bistro is also easy to miss, but don’t. The food is excellent, the service superb. Try the homemade foie gras (16 euros), the cotelette d’ agneaue (lamb chop, 24 euros) or the thon a la plancha (seared tuna, 24 euros) and the fresh apple and caramel tartelette aux pommes for dessert (9 euros). The menu changes depending on what is available locally, but Cohen and his staff are ready to offer their recommendations.
When it comes to charm, Comptoir Des Archives at 41 Rue des Archives deserves a visit. Popular with the locals, this neighborhood cafe offers no-frills good food at affordable prices. Try the Rigatoni aux Truffes (12 euros) or some traditional French crepes (6 euros). Best of all, ask for Olivier, the owner. He will make your day.
If you’re in search of drinks and a taste of old Paris, Au Petit Fer a Cheval at 30 Rue Vielle du Temple is the place. It’s small. Very small. The horseshoe- shaped bar barely seats a dozen, and a cluster of tiny tables in the back can pack in 20 people or so at best. This little watering hole has been around for more than 100 years, and it’s a well-known Marais spot for those in the know. It’s the perfect place for a glass of wine (5 euros), the Assiette Fromages, an excellent assortment of cheese (11 euros), and their famous Tarte Tatin with creme fraiche (8.5 euros) — their luscious version of apple pie.
Paris surely is a city of must-sees: the Eiffel Tower, particularly at night; a cruise along the River Seine steeped in history; a visit with the Mona Lisa at the Louvre; and simply taking in the beauty of the Notre Dame Cathedral.
But beyond the traditional tourist spots, the lesser-known shops, restaurants and museums offer a sweet slice of Paris, one that is truly unforgettable. In the wake of a terrible tragedy, Parisians are grateful for the visitors who venture out and appreciate all that their beautiful city has to offer. Now, more than ever, Paris is calling.
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