Show Colin Hazama photos of local fish and he’ll be able to rattle off the species, their behavioral and physical characteristics, where they’re likely to be found and the best ways to cook them. When he’s not helping his wife care for their newborn daughter, Caya, or in the kitchen of The Royal Hawaiian, where, at age 34, he is the youngest executive chef in the hotel’s history, he’s likely in the ocean with spear in hand.

“When I was growing up, I spent many summers on Maui with my relatives,” Hazama said. “My Uncle Russell (Sato) was the first one to take me fishing and spearfishing; I was 10 years old at the time. He taught me about the best fishing spots on Maui, which fish were edible, which were not, which were especially prized. My grandmother would serve whatever we caught — sashimi, steamed, fried, shabu shabu (boiled) or simmered in miso soup. Those were some of the best meals I’ve had to this day.”

Hazama came up with the theme “Fanta-Sea Table” to connect his two passions — fishing and cooking — in one memorable experience. Spotlighting sustainable local fisheries, aquaculture and aquaponics, the six-part series will run every other month beginning this month. It features a Friday dinner focused on some kind of fresh island seafood, followed by a tour the next day of the company that provides it.

“The theme ‘Fanta-Sea’ describes how I view the underwater world,” Haza­ma said. “To me it’s a fantasyland of caves, coral and amazing marine life. I love the creative aspect of transforming seafood into new, interesting, delicious dishes. Fish is high in lean protein and healthy omega-3 fatty acids, and there are so many ways you can prepare it.”

For the first event in the Fanta-Sea series, Hazama is partnering with Mari’s Gardens (marisgardens.com) in Mililani, the largest aquaponics farm in Hawaii. Nutrient-rich water from tanks filled with tilapia and swai (basa or Asian catfish) is used to grow 20 kinds of organic produce, from lettuce to lychee.

According to Hazama, most of the swai and tilapia currently being consumed in Hawaii are from brackish ponds, streams and lakes in China or Thailand. That unfiltered salt and freshwater gives the cooked fish a mushy texture and a taste tinged with silt; hence, they haven’t been popular among those with discerning palates.

Mari’s Gardens is changing that.

“Their swai and tilapia have a firm flesh with a clean, delicate flavor,” Hazama said. “The best preparations for swai are steaming, sauteing or deep-frying. Tilapia is really good raw, smoked, sauteed or grilled. The important thing is to avoid overcooking fish, which makes it dry and ruins its flavor.”

Three of the six courses for the opening dinner of the Fanta-Sea series star Mari’s fish: slow-cooked swai, vodka-cured spiced tilapia and ulu (breadfruit)-crusted tilapia. Mari’s produce also shines, including watercress, spring greens and baby carrots. Hazama will be transforming some of the vegetables into creative accompaniments: Think Roma tomato butter, candied beet chips and hearts of palm and ulu fondue.

At each dinner, Hazama and representatives from the featured farm and winery will share insights about the courses and wine pairings. Guests can chat with those experts during the cocktail hour and after the meal.

An interactive component will also be part of the series’ tours. At Mari’s Gardens, for example, Hazama will invite a volunteer to assist with the cleaning and filleting of swai for the on-site lunch. All attendees will create their own entree with the fish and their choice of veggies at a Thai curry bar.

Fanta-Sea Table continues the educational dinner and farm tour program that Hazama launched last year to remind guests that their food doesn’t originate in a restaurant or a supermarket; rather, it comes from hardworking ranchers, farmers and fishermen.

“We’re promoting Fanta-Sea Table as an ‘only at the Royal epicurean journey’ because it’s a rare experience revolving around great food, great wine and great people,” he said. “The series gives guests a behind-the-scenes look at another aspect of food industry operations and recognizes smart, talented entrepreneurs who aren’t often in the limelight. What I do as a chef is possible because of them.”

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.