Pakistan and India might be uneasy neighbors politically, but when it comes to cuisine, there is harmony at the table.

Bombay Palace took over the space in Discovery Bay that was formerly home to Monsoon India. Owner Imran Khan (not the cricket star-turned-politician) adopted an Indian-related name for his restaurant for continuity and familiarity. But many of the dishes we think of as being Indian are also common in his native Pakistan, due to the nations’ shared history.

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Both were part of the Mughal empire that began in the early 1500s, leading up to British crown rule in 1858, before splitting into two independent nations in 1947.

In addition to the curries they share in common with neighboring Afghanistan and Iran, Pakistani cuisine incorporates the sweet-sour notes of pomegranate seeds. In keeping with Pakistan’s predominantly Muslim culture, there is no pork on the Bombay Palace menu.

Pakistan is also a bread culture. Where many Indian restaurants here will offer about five bread options, there are 10 here, including a bread basket ($10.95) with a host of options. Breads include variations of puffy tandoor-baked naan ($2.95 to $6.95), unleavened whole-wheat paratha ($3.95), unleavened roti ($3.50) or leavened onion kulcha ($3.95).

Use the bread to scoop up curries and eat with your hand, the Pakistani way. Or use a fork and spoon, whatever makes you comfortable. Even without any curries before you, the breads are delicious and go a long way toward filling you up. Servings of curry and other entrees might appear small when compared with the platters and vats of food Americans expect when dining out. I have looked at plates here and thought, “How are four people supposed to share that?” But between all that bread and the intensity of herb and spice blends in the dishes, I can fill up on little more than a single jumbo prawn and cube of chicken.

There’s a reason for that. Scientists have proved that rich umami flavors increase satiety when combined with protein — which is really sad, because the food is so delicious I want to continue eating even when my stomach tells me to stop. This happens well before my brain and palate have gotten their fill of the dazzling flavors.

It starts with spiced papadums ($2.95), a trio of thin, lentil flour crisps that come with a spicy mint chutney and sweet tamarind sauce for dipping. I like both sauces and go back and forth between the two.

You could also opt for samosas ($6.95) or, for a change of pace, try a dish of samosa chana chaat ($10.95), crisp potato-and-pea turnovers layered with chickpeas and onions, then drizzled with yogurt, mint chutney and tamarind sauce. You can mix all the ingredients yourself to create a layered dip, or have your server do it for you.

For a variation on the mild yogurt-spiced tandoori chicken ($17.95) pairing, try spicy tandoori chicken wings ($9.95) with the heat of Buffalo-style wings.

Beyond these appetizers and basic dishes, the restaurant is not for those with timid palates. Flavors are much more intense than at other local counterparts.

It will take several visits to make your way through the menu, which also includes jumbo prawns the size of lobster tail. You can have these spice-rubbed and grilled in the tandoor ($21.95) or as an option for most of the curries. I especially like it with the coconut curry ($21.95) or as the protein of choice in the dhaniya (coriander) special ($21.95), a Pakistani specialty. The shrimp is tossed with chopped onions, bell peppers, cilantro and parsley, and arrives on a sizzling platter.

If you can afford to splurge, try the herb-marinated quartet of lamb chops ($34), also grilled in the tandoor.

I always try to order a saag (spinach) dish ($17.95 chicken, $18.95 lamb) for a dose of green. Another of my favorites is the lamb korma ($18.95), a creamy curry with a sauce of onions, cashews and almonds.

The restaurant also offers ample proof that vegetarians and vegans need not sacrifice flavor for their beliefs. Baingan bhartha, roasted eggplant with tomatoes and onions ($15.95), and aloo mutter, potatoes and green peas in a creamy onion sauce ($14.95), were savory enough to satisfy this meat eater.

At any restaurant I can usually find one or two favorite dishes, but I have at least six here, and still counting, as I continue to explore.

I’m not a big fan of desserts like gulab jamun ($5.95), doughnut balls soaked in honey syrup. Imagine andagi served that way. No.

I do like the dense ice cream kulfi ($5.95), but it hasn’t been available recently. Mango lassi ($4.95) works well as dessert. For once there’s a great ratio of fruit to yogurt in this drink.

BITE SIZE

Masala, in wing form

If the food of Pakistan and India is too exotic for you, walk next door to neighboring Buffalo Wild Wings for an intro to Mumbai Masala, offered for a limited time as a chicken wing flavor.

Inspired by tikka masala, the wings are slathered in a tomato-based sauce spiced with coriander, garlic, paprika, cumin and turmeric. It’s also heavy on vinegar, which I initially found off-putting, but the flavor became addictive when I got accustomed to the sourness.

A snack-size sampler of five pieces is about $7.99 to $8.79, depending on the location.

Buffalo Wild Wings is at 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (983-3933), 1000 Kamehameha Highway in Pearl City (260-9464) and 91-1061 Keaunui Drive in Ewa Beach (685-0494).

Nadine Kam’s “The Weekly Eater” restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com. “Bite Size” documents the new, the small, the unsung.