Every generation reimagines and reinvents cultural norms in defiance of their parents’ uncool ways. It’s most evident with music and fashion, but this also happens with food. In restaurants, nowhere is the contrast more stark than with Korean cuisine.

Million has been serving up Korean barbecue and other classic dishes at 626 Sheridan St. since 1989, enough time for another generation to reinvent the Korean restaurant. Enter Million Pocha, which defines itself as a Korean tapas bar. It’s close to the original Million, which shares a family history.

The pocha represents an evolution of South Korea’s late-night “pojangmacha” culture of snacking and drinking the night away, making meals out of quick bites, grabbing whatever catches the eye from various street vendors.

Without the real estate and with more regulations, Hawaii’s pochas are more formal, bringing the street fare indoors and providing comfortable places to sit and rest. But it’s not your father’s restaurant. Inside, old-fashioned booths turn the place into a maze, making it difficult to find your friends, but delivering privacy when you do, and the K-pop videos never stop. You’ll see an endless loop of androgynous boys with multi­colored hair and a stream of look-alike, sound-alike girls with short skirts and suggestive dance moves.

It’s not exactly my taste in music, but the food is very, very good. For the generation that seems to have abandoned reading in favor of eyeballing Instagram and Pinterest, the menu follows suit. There are few words and descriptions, but it’s full of mouth-watering photos. The menu is still a work in progress, so you will see prices blacked out for dishes no longer available, and in the course of ordering will find more dishes unavailable. It’s disappointing, but hopefully, the restaurant will arrive at dishes that prove to be even more popular.

If you have a foot-food fetish, this is the place for you. At the front of the menu are the most popular items, a cold pig foot salad ($22), a spicy chicken foot soup ($17) and spicy pig’s feet ($17). Yes, the prices appear high, but the idea is to share the huge platters and bowls with all your drinking buddies, and hopefully, they’ll chip in equally at the end of the meal.

Also among the “best” offerings is a generous bowl of tteokbokki, or chewy tubular rice cakes in a spicy sauce ($22) and kochujang-marinated pork ribs ($30) served on a hot platter with a pool of bubbling cheese. A server coats the ribs in the stringy cheese, which absorbs some of the spice, thereby removing some of the heat from the ribs. It’s tasty, but I don’t need the extra fat, and this probably holds true for anyone older than 35.

It made me think of Jamie Lee Curtis as Lindsay Lohan’s mom in “Freaky Friday,” when Curtis, trapped in Lohan’s younger body, gratefully ate a french fry, saying, “This food may make you blow up like a balloon, but it will do nothing whatsoever to me.”

On the other hand, kimchee fried rice ($15) is also stirred in bubbling cheese and I would eat this every day if I didn’t think this artery-clogging habit would kill me.

Leave any kind of diet at the door.

A friend going with the aim of orering something healthful was dismayed when each of his friends ordered something fried — mandoo ($6), griddle seafood pancake ($15) and crunchy, pungent garlic fried chicken ($16).

To address initial sticker shock and customer demand, a new menu features simpler, lower-priced options such as kimchee ramen ($10), french fries ($8), or fishcake and udon soup ($12).

a lot of hangover-preventive soups are on the menu as well. I love the simplicity of clam soup ($20), the shellfish steaming onsen-style in a clear, mild-looking broth that is deceptively spicy, infused with slices of jalapeno. I also crave the richness of champon, the Nagasaki seafood soup ($22), with its rich, briny broth, ramen noodles and shellfish. Crab that graces the dish was flavorless, but I was satisfied with the certainty that all its flavor drained into the excellent soup.

Listed under “Simple Meal” is a hangover ramen ($12) with mussels and shrimp; and refreshing naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles ($12) in a chilled cucumber broth.

Dessert is another work in progress. When I visited, there was only an ice peach salad ($10), which turned out to be canned peaches on ice. Might as well go home for that.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.