“How many of you have made ribs? How many turned out dang good? How many of you were drinking? That’s why they were dang good. You coulda had a Pop-Tart and it woulda been dang good.”
Wisdom from Myron Mixon, a man not to be reckoned with when the topic is barbecue.
Mixon is typically introduced as “the winningest man in BBQ,” and you’re unlikely to find anyone to contest that.
Certainly not in the crowd at the Hilton Hawaiian Village on Friday, where Mixon beguiled a sellout crowd of 120 — all fans of the craft of cooking with fire.
“I don’t follow Brad Pitt or Angelina Jolie,” attendee Brad Boynton said. “In my world, Myron Mixon, he’s a superstar.”
Mixon is a television barbecue celebrity, featured in Discovery’s Destination America shows “BBQ Pitmasters,” “BBQ Rules,” “BBQ Pit Wars” and “Smoked.” He has his own line of ingredients and gear, including a $4,000 smoker. He’s got three cookbooks, a cooking school at his home in Unadilla, Ga., and this summer opens restaurants in Washington, D.C., and Chicago that will seat 200 to 300.
He’s gruff and tough and does nothing small. “Go big or go home,” he said, “’cause nobody ain’t gonna care 100 years from now.”
If his name is unfamiliar, you’re just moving in the wrong crowd.
Mixon has won more than 200 grand championships on the competitive national barbecue circuit, in contests that can involve more than 100 teams and prize money up to $100,000. He wears a sparkly championship ring that looks just like Super Bowl bling.
“He’s always the top dog,” said Norris Sherfield, another die-hard fan.
Mixon put on a show for the Hilton crowd that was full of personality but also the practicalities on how dang-good ribs really do get made.
His pronouncements drew fervent response, for example his warning against building a fire that’s too hot and has to be damped down. This makes for “a dirty fire, a sooty fire,” Mixon said.
“Amen!” came a call from the back of the room.
He seems to get this kind of thing a lot. “I am the pastor, y’all,” Mixon shot back, “of the church of what’s happening now.”
His style is direct and honest, his advice straightforward, said Amanda Toeaina, a dedicated viewer of “BBQ Pitmasters” while stationed with the Army in Korea. She had just arrived in Honolulu from Korea about two weeks ago when she heard Mixon’s class advertised on the radio. “At 11:30 at night I called and left a message. I got a call the next day — I got the last ticket!”
Toeaina is on her way out of the Army and is headed for culinary school, she said, so Mixon’s words, plus the cookbook and recipes given to each participant, will help kick-start her new career. “He’s so confident in his cooking.”
Here’s a quick take on Mixon’s advice: Never oil a chicken; it makes the skin rubbery. Season with a good rub, but don’t put any under the skin or the chicken will be over-seasoned and possibly chalky. On the other hand, always oil ribs to help the rub adhere. Press down firmly to set the rub (don’t actually rub it in). And always use St. Louis spareribs, taking the time to remove the membrane and excess fat, but not to the point where you puncture the meat.
“I’d rather you take less of it off than make a hot mess.”
BUILDING BLOCKS FOR DANG-GOOD RIBS
Myron Mixon’s recipes will make four racks of ribs. Cooking is meant to be done in a large, covered grill or smoker.
Trim the membrane. “Rub does not stick to membrane.” On a rack of ribs, the membrane is on the bottom, the bony side. At the narrow end, scrape the membrane with a knife to lift a section large enough to get your fingers under. Then pull off the membrane in one sheet.
Marinating: Combine 1 liter ginger ale, 1 quart orange juice, 1-1/4 cups soy sauce, 2 cups salt and 2 1-ounce packages dry ranch dressing mix. Cover ribs in marinade and refrigerate at least 4 hours.
Rub formula: 1 cup packed light brown sugar; plus 2 tablespoons EACH chili, onion and garlic powders, dry mustard, cayenne pepper, kosher salt and coarsely ground pepper. Apply after removing ribs from marinade and patting dry. Let sit 30 minutes to an hour at room temperature.
How to rub: A coating of vegetable oil helps rub adhere. Never use mustard for this purpose. “Mustard tastes mustardy. Oil is neutral.” Shake the rub onto the meat to give it a “medium coat” on both sides (which actually looked pretty heavy when he did it) and press it down, don’t rub it in.
Spritz: 3 cups apple juice, 2 cups sugar, 2 cups white vinegar, 2 tablespoons liquid imitation butter (a McCormick’s brand bottled product). Combine in a spray bottle. Spritz ribs every 15 minutes after the first half-hour while cooking.
Sauce: 1 quart white vinegar, plus 1 tablespoon EACH kosher salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Heat without boiling to dissolve salt. Blend 2 cups sauce with 36 ounces apple jelly and 2 cups light corn syrup to make a glaze for ribs.
Procedure: Place ribs in uncovered baking pan and cook at 250 degrees for 2 hours. Pour apple juice into a clean baking pan; transfer ribs to this pan, cover with foil and cook another hour. Turn off heat, apply sauce and let sit, covered, as heat dies.
