If there’s no use crying over spilled milk, there’s certainly no reason to do so over sour milk. Why? Because while there’s nothing you can do with spilled milk but clean it up, you can give an expired carton of unspilled milk new life: as homemade ricotta cheese.
“What may have been old milk is now brand-new cheese,” said Ronnie Nasuti, executive chef at Tiki’s Grill & Bar, of one of the wonders of making fresh ricotta. “This is for economy, so you don’t waste your milk — and it definitely tastes better than store-bought.”
(A quick note, before going further: This version of ricotta is not technically a proper ricotta, which is made from whey. This one, made from curds, more accurately qualifies as a homemade ricotta.)
The concept is simple: Acid added to heated whole milk causes the milk to curdle (separate the milk solids, or curds, from liquid whey), creating the cheese. Lemon juice, vinegar or citric acid serve well for the acidic component.
If you want citrus flavor in the ricotta — such a cheese would go well in desserts and even some savory dishes — lemon is the way to go. Vinegar produces a cleaner taste. Citric acid offers efficiency and greater control of the consistency of the product. Then there is the kind of milk to consider, whether whole or 2 percent milk. Nasuti says the lower fat content of 2 percent means fewer curds and a chalkier consistency. Some recipes call for cream, which produces richness and a creamier texture.
“Cream really makes it taste better,” he said. “A creamy mouthfeel comes from fat, and fat makes things taste good.”
Do NOT use nonfat milk, which doesn’t easily separate into curds and whey. Also, be sure your milk is not UHT, or Ultra High Temperature, pasteurized. That process changes the structure of the milk, which prevents separation.
Various procedures abound for homemade ricotta. Nasuti says he doesn’t use a set recipe. “I just look online at a bunch and then do my own version.” His flexible approach and consistent success really speak to the ease of the task, which doesn’t require his super-duper chef skills.
A “cardinal sin,” however, is to boil the milk, he said. “You’re making solids. If you boil it, you’re re-emulsifying the curds. That’ll make it harder to strain.”
The exact temperature the milk should hit before acid is added varies from recipe to recipe, but it usually ranges from 165 to 200 degrees. When curds are formed, the general approach is to pour the contents of the pot into a colander lined with cheesecloth.
Nasuti riffed on all steps, adding lemons, his acid of choice, at a slightly lower temperature. Though the milk began separating immediately, it took its time solidifying the curds, so he responded by adding more lemon juice. “More acid gets the ricotta firmer faster,” he said.
His colander liner was Handi Wipes, which he prefers to cheesecloth, and as a practice he scoops the curds from the pot, which he says preserves the delicate curds, rather than pouring everything into the colander at once.
At this point, when the curds are draining, it’s decision time: What consistency of ricotta do you desire? Drain off less of the whey for a softer, moister consistency. Such a ricotta lends itself to a pasta dish or cannoli dessert. For a drier cheese, press with a weight as it drains. Homemade ricotta can also be salted, pressed and aged for a number of months to create a more assertive cheese, reminiscent of feta, called ricotta salada.
Nasuti’s version, however, produced in about 30 minutes, was delicate and creamy with a definite tang of lemon. It was thoroughly delicious. The chef said he already had plans for it — homemade lasagna.
Ideas for using homemade ricotta
A few suggestions from Ronnie Nasuti, executive chef of Tiki’s Grill & Bar:
>> Cannoli various ways: Simple, with a tiny bit of almond extract added to lemony ricotta, plus powdered sugar; and fancy, such as a chocolate- chip cannoli creation Nasuti dreamed up off the top of his head. Add the sugar and almond extract, and dress it with candied citrus and macadamia nuts.
>> Lasagna: “It would be wonderful with the lemon flavor,” Nasuti said of the homemade ricotta he demonstrated.
>> Pasta alla vodka: Add a generous dollop of ricotta to pasta tossed in a good sauce (despite the name, there’s no vodka added). It’s a dish that was in Nasuti’s mother’s meal rotation while he was growing up.
>> Fresh salad: Use some good balsamic vinegar and olive oil to dress vegetables, include good tomatoes and smear a little pesto next to the ricotta. “Make a meal of it,” the chef said.
>> Mix with sweet items. It goes well because it’s fresh and smooth.
>> Mix with spicy items. Ricotta makes for a good pairing because it is palate-coating and creamy rather than sharp.
Homemade Ricotta
Adapted from thekitchn.com
1/2 gallon whole milk
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
Juice from 2 or 3 lemons (substitute with 1/3 cup distilled white vinegar or 1/2 teaspoon citric acid, available online)
In pot, add milk and salt, and gradually warm over medium heat to about 160 degrees, monitoring temperature using a thermometer. Milk will foam and start to steam; remove from heat if it starts to boil.
Turn off heat. Add lemon juice. Stir gently to ensure juice comes in contact with all of milk.
Let sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Milk should separate into clumps of white curds and thin, watery whey. Dip slotted spoon into pot to check whether a lot of unseparated milk remains. If so, add another tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar and wait a few more minutes.
To strain curds, set strainer over bowl and line with a dry sheet of Handi Wipes or several layers of cheese cloth. Carefully remove curds from pot with slotted spoon and transfer to strainer. Pour remaining curds through strainer.
Drain curds 10 minutes to 1 hour, depending on how wet or dry you prefer your ricotta. If it becomes too dry, stir in some whey.
Fresh ricotta can be used right away, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to a week. Makes about 1-1/2 cups.
Nutritional information unavailable.
Recipe variations
>> Well-known food scientist J. Kenji Lopez-Alt offers up a five-minute ricotta made in the microwave (!), along with some scientific edification, at serious eats.com; enter “5-minute ricotta” in the search field.
>> Remember Nasuti’s warning about boiling milk? For a total flip-flop on that rule, which governs most ricotta recipes, check out TV chef and cookbook queen Ina Garten’s recipe, in which she calls for boiling the milk, turning off the heat and then adding vinegar. Visit foodnet work.com/recipes and enter “ina garten homemade ricotta” in the search field.
