Tony Roma’s is one of those establishments that’s been around for such a long time it’s kind of easy to forget about it, especially the one in Waikiki.

That’s because it’s almost too conveniently located, right at the mouth of Waikiki at the intersection of Ala Moana Boulevard and Kalakaua Avenue. It’s an easy corner to zip by from either street, and usually by that time you’re beginning to grumble about finding parking in Waikiki. Fortunately, Tony Roma’s has its own parking, so that’s a nonissue.

The other issue is the building itself, a single-story, single-use structure. There are very few buildings like this left in Waikiki, most of them private residences, so it just doesn’t register that it’s a well-known eatery with a solid reputation for serving its mainstay, barbecue baby back ribs.

The experience

The Tony Roma’s at Waikiki — there’s another in Aiea — has been around for 36 years. That dates it to one of the earliest in the franchise, which was launched in Miami in the early 1970s and started to go national a decade later.

To an extent, it feels like it, and that’s not to say that’s a bad thing. The decor is simple and unassuming, with the main feature being red brick, presumably a reference to ovens used to barbecue the meat.

There’s both a large dining room and, separated by a partition, a bar room, but even the bar room is mostly small tables and booths, with the bar off in the corner. The only flat-screen in the place is behind the bar, so you can watch a game if you want — but there’s no other effort to be a sports bar. The piped-in music features tunes that even in the 1970s would have been considered oldies — Elvis, light pop from the ’60s — with an occasional Elton John tune. You can have a conversation with a companion or enjoy your meal in relative peace. It’s all pretty comfortable and cozy.

The food

There is no happy hour food menu, but there’s good food at a fair price. Tony Roma’s bills itself as “A Place for Ribs,” and in that area it will not disappoint. Chances are, in your mind, you’d be comparing anybody else’s ribs to Tony Roma’s, it sets such a good standard.

The restaurants have added a few sauces over the years, so now there are four: Original, Carolina Honeys, Maker’s Mark Bourbon BBQ and Tony’s Red Hots. I had the bourbon sauce and was intrigued when it came with a single slice of lime. Giving it a squeeze over a half-slab of baby back ribs ($18.95) definitely added a zing to the sauce, which otherwise had a subtle smoky flavor.

The ribs themselves were prepared with falling-off-the-bone perfection. They give you extra napkins to clean your hands during the meal and a wet wipe near the end, but they’re hardly necessary, because the meat comes off so easily.

Tony Roma’s has franchises around the world — Asia, Latin America and the Middle East — and while it’s interesting that American-style ribs have become so popular in so many places, I also wondered whether those locations had any influence on Roma’s menu. One appetizer I tried, the Kickin’ Shrimp ($9.99), reminded me of Chinese honey walnut shrimp, with the slightly crispy shrimp nicely presented in a mildly tangy cream sauce.

Another tasty appetizer was the Onion Loaf ($6.99 half, $9.99 full), a deep-fried concoction served with barbecue sauce. Or for variety you could go with the Triple Play Sampler — potato skins, chicken tenders and a half onion loaf for $14.99.

There’s also a nod to local tastes with the Mojo Grilled Mahi Mahi with Pineapple Salsa ($26.99), which combines a citrus and brown-mustard sauce with the salsa. Seems like an interesting combination, though I haven’t tried it yet.

Still and always, ribs are definitely “the thing” at Tony Roma’s. If you’re in the mood for one of the other menu items, go with a friend who will order a full slab — a half slab was fine for a meal for one — then beg, borrow or steal a rib or two.

The drinks

Happy hour is from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily and is simple enough: well drinks, $4; mai tai, $5; domestic beer, $4; import beer, $5; and house wine, $5. That’s a discount of at least $1.25 on each, with a discount of $2 on some wines. I had the mai tai and couldn’t complain. After an afternoon at the beach, one was enough to lift my spirits a bit but not worry me about the drive home.

The verdict

Tony Roma’s has been at this for a long time now and has become synonymous with ribs, for good reason. Though they’ve added a few things over the years, like new sauces, it sticks to what it does well, offering it in a friendly, comfortable environment. It has an old-fashioned vibe, but I found that comfortable, and I certainly enjoyed the food.

With its convenient parking and tasty eats, the Waikiki location is a reliable place to stop if you’re in the mood for ribs, cooked to perfection and served in a place that lets you focus on enjoying your meal.