After finishing the last bite of mouthwatering haupia cake from King’s Bakery, my husband, Casey, the son-of-a-mailman-turned-appellate-attorney, leaned over and whispered, “For just a few days, I would like to feel like a royal.”
Never one to turn away a challenge, I started thinking regally. No. 10 Downing St. was rather busy with the comings and goings of Brexit, so instead we went to the Continent and communed with our imperial aspirations in Paris, a city I once lived in and still know well.
The beds
The first two nights were spent in the former home of Prince Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon’s grandnephew, and since 2006, owned by Shangri-La Hotels. This hotel particulier, originally built in 1896 for Roland’s wife and daughter, Princess Marie, is a blend of Empire, Directoire and Louis IV styles. Boasting 101 perfectly appointed rooms, the massive marble lobby staircase, art, intimate public spaces and manicured gardens perfectly reflect its resplendent past. No small wonder it was here that Princess Marie announced her engagement in 1906 to Prince George of Greece and Denmark. Adding to the stately environs is the largest private indoor Parisian pool with natural sunlight, several restaurants, a specialty bar, a well-equipped gym and small spa, all made for a baronial sojourn.
Opening the curtains in our spacious room, we faced a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower. The look on Casey’s face was priceless. Mission accomplished.
As I wanted to show Casey the area where I once lived, we spent the next two nights in a beautiful, private apartment in the 7th arrondissement, just on the other side of the Seine. Paris Perfect has several fully equipped apartments, in this now chic neighborhood, bursting with good restaurants, bakeries, specialty shops and markets. Our apartment, called the Volnay, was impeccably furnished, had everything one could possibly need, including washer-dryer and — rare for Paris — an eat-in kitchen with dishwasher. It also offered magnificent views of the Eiffel Tower. It was truly Paris Perfect.
IF YOU GO…
>> The best way: United, American, Delta, Air France and Delta have connecting service from Honolulu starting at $1,260 round trip.
>> Where to stay: For ultimate French luxe, Shangri-La Hotel Paris, 10, Avenue d’Iena 75116. On the right bank near the Seine, Eiffel Tower, Japan Cultural House, Museum of Modern Art and Marche President Wilson. Tel 866/565-5050; Shangri-la.com.
>> Live like a local: To experience Paris like a local for three days or three weeks in wonderfully furnished apartments located in choice neighborhoods and managed by an American, Paris Perfect also has several themed packages, such as antiquing and gourmet weeks. Tel 888/520-2087; ParisPerfect.com.
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The meals
In keeping with our regal theme, we dined at Le George at the George V, the hotel where Lady Diana and Dodi Fayed spent their last days before fate tragically intervened in 1997. It was truly a meal befitting a king. The tasting menu with sublime wine pairings brought 10 plates meant for sharing, each better than the last. Standouts were lemon- glazed prawns, caramelized onion tarte tatin with vanilla bean Parmesan ice cream and guinea fowl with black truffle ravioli so exquisite I fell deeply in culinary love with Chef Simone Zanoni.
Another great meal was at La Bauhinia, which combines French and Southeast Asian cuisine. The foie gras rolled in cinnamon amuse bouche set a delightful French tone. We were aristocratically appeased with their signature Thai pomelo salad and Malaysian stewed lamb in red curry and coconut milk.
Seated outside at Restaurant Gloria in my old neighborhood, we devoured some of the best pizza outside Naples made at this Italian, family-owned restaurant. Our last night in Paris, we savored escargot and cassoulet of duck sausage with white beans on La Fontaine de Mars’ lovely terrace.
The finds
Much of what defines Paris is, of course, food. Nowhere perhaps is this more true than at its colorful open markets — marche — great for buying ingredients, assembling an impromptu princely picnic or simply strolling, none of which will cost a king’s ransom.
My favorite four:
>> Marche rue Cler, in the 7th arrondissement, is a permanent open market on a charming pedestrian street, open all day Tuesdays through Sundays. Parisians flock here for their gastronomic delights. Metro: Ecole Militaire.
>> Marche Saxe-Breteuil, also in the 7th arrondissement, is open 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Thursday and Saturday. Marvelous selection of flowers, flavored salts, meats, breads and, of course, cheeses. Metro: Segur or Duroc.
>> Marche Grenelle, in the 15th arrondissement, is open 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Wednesdays and Sundays. It also sells antiques on Sundays. Metro: La Motte-Piquet or Dupleix.
>> Marche Avenue President Wilson, in the 16th arrondissement but very close to the 7th, is open 7 a.m.- 3 p.m. Wednesdays and Saturdays. Dizzying array of breads, pastries, olives, vegetables, fresh pasta and fish. Metro: Iena or Alma Marceau.
The lessons learned
Victor Hugo once said, “To err is human. To loaf is Parisian.” That’s probably true, and admittedly I’m quite good at both, but Paris is also the world’s best place to fantasize an imperial life feasting on fantastic fare.
Julie L. Kessler is a travel writer, attorney and legal columnist based in Los Angeles and the author of the book “Fifty-Fifty: The Clarity of Hindsight.” She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.