Impressive purse cake a gift of time and talent

Berin Nakamura of Makiki is a man of many talents. During the day he trains customer service representatives at HMSA. At night he is a popular bartender at Islands Restaurant in Ala Moana Center. Who would guess that in his free time he cooks and bakes for friends like a professional?

In fact, this self-taught baker’s specialty elicits exclamations of joy. It is a designer purse, spectacular both in looks and taste. His combination of chocolate buttermilk cake with coconut meringue buttercream frosting, accentuated with shredded coconut and caramel sauce, is simply delicious.

It takes two days to prepare the masterpiece, but Nakamura says it is not complicated. He uses tools and techniques to create a highly finished look. Using marshmallows, powdered sugar and coloring to make an easy fondant, he simulates the tan and brown colors of leather. With a sewing tracer, he adds stitching marks that are trademarks of high-end leather purses. Gold luster dust, mixed with a clear extract such as almond, makes a paint to color pieces of fondant that mimic the metal parts of the purse.

The results are impressive. Nakamura gives a gift of time and talent to create cakes that wow.

Chocolate Buttermilk Cake with Coconut Meringue Buttercream Frosting

>> Cake:

• Nonstick cooking spray
• Flour, for dusting pan
• 3/4 cup cocoa powder
• 1 cup hot coffee
• 2 cups sugar
• 2 cups cake flour, sifted
• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but cool, each stick cut into 6 pieces
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

>> Frosting:

• 4 large egg whites
• 1 cup sugar
• Pinch salt
• 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar (optional, to stabilize frosting)
• 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but cool, each stick cut into 6 pieces
• 1/4 cup coconut cream
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon coconut extract
• 1 cup shredded sweetened coconut
• 1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted in a 350-degree oven for 6-7 minutes until brown and fragrant
• 1/2 cup store-bought caramel sauce

>> Fondant:

• 10 ounces miniature marshmallows
• 2 tablespoons water, divided
• 4 cups powdered sugar, plus more for kneading
• Brown and ivory food coloring paste or gel
• 1/4 cup butter or vegetable shortening
• >> Decorations:
• Any clear-colored extract
• Gold luster dust

Day 1

>> Make cake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a 9-by-13 baking pan with nonstick cooking spray, then dust with flour. Line bottom with parchment paper. In small bowl, combine cocoa powder and hot coffee; set aside to cool and allow chocolate flavor to bloom.

Using standing mixer with paddle attachment, add sugar, flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Stir on low until dry ingredients are well combined, about 1 minute. Add butter, 1 piece at a time. Increase speed slightly and mix until batter looks like wet sand and the biggest piece of butter is no larger than a pea.

In another small bowl, combine eggs, buttermilk and vanilla. With mixer on low, drizzle mixture into batter until just incorporated. Increase speed to medium-high and beat batter until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Scrape down sides of bowl and continue beating another 10-15 seconds.

Reduce speed to low and drizzle in coffee mixture. Continue mixing until batter is fully incorporated, stopping once or twice to scrape sides and bottom of bowl. Batter will look thin.

Pour into prepared pan and bake 40-45 minutes, or until the top springs back when lightly touched and a toothpick inserted into center comes out dry. Cool 10-15 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack to cool completely.

Do not remove parchment paper. This will help to prevent cracks while handling the cake. Transfer to cake board or platter, securely wrap in 2 or 3 layers of plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to allow cake to firm.

Day 2

>> Frosting: In double boiler or large metal bowl fitted over a pot of simmering water, whisk egg whites, sugar, salt and cream of tartar if using. Warm mixture gently, stirring constantly with whisk until sugar has dissolved completely and thermometer reads 130 degrees.

Remove from heat and transfer to standing mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Whip on high 7-8 minutes until barely warm (about 80 degrees), glossy and sticky. Add butter 1 piece at a time. Scrape sides at least twice and continue to beat until frosting is smooth and creamy. If butter is too cold, mixture will appear curdled. In that case, increase speed slightly and beat until smooth. Add coconut cream and extracts. Mix until combined, about 1 minute, and remove from mixer. Using rubber spatula, fold in shredded coconut.

>> Assemble cake: Level cake and, using a ruler, cut into 3 identical pieces about 8-1/2 by 4 inches each. On serving platter or cake board, center first layer with parchment paper on top. Remove parchment. Pipe icing evenly over cake and, using spatula, smooth frosting from center out to edges, leaving a slightly raised border around edge to contain caramel. Sprinkle with half of almonds and drizzle with caramel. Top with next cake layer, and add frosting, almonds and caramel. Top with third layer of cake. Wrap entire cake in plastic wrap and chill at least 1 hour.

Carefully unwrap cake and, using serrated knife, gently trim edges and sides to form shape of purse. (A basic shape that’s easy to decorate is a rectangle with slightly rounded sides.)

Once shaped, dust off excess crumbs, then apply thin layer of frosting to seal in the crumbs and fill in imperfections on the surface.

Using spatula, apply another layer of frosting, about 1/4-inch thick, smoothing it out to form the shape of the purse. Refrigerate uncovered until frosting has firmed, 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, work on fondant.

>> Fondant: In large microwave-safe bowl, place half of marshmallows and 1 tablespoon water; heat on high 1 minute until puffed and melted. Stir with wooden spoon, returning to microwave for 10 seconds intervals as needed until smooth. Add enough brown food coloring to create a chocolaty color; it will lighten slightly when sugar is added. Sift in 2 cups of powdered sugar and mix until fondant begins to clump.

Generously coat hands with butter or shortening and liberally dust a clean counter with powdered sugar. Turn fondant out onto counter and knead as you would bread dough. Add additional sugar as necessary to prevent sticking. Continue kneading until fondant is a firm, smooth elastic ball that stretches without tearing, about 8 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside unrefrigerated about 15 minutes.

Prepare second batch using ivory coloring for tan fondant.

To roll out, cover counter with sifted powdered sugar and flatten dark fondant with a rolling pin until it is 1/8-inch thick and large enough to cover the cake.

Carefully lift and drape fondant over cake. Gently smooth out fondant and trim excess, cutting at corners and sealing. Remove air bubbles by pricking with a small pin and smoothing.

Roll tan fondant into thin strips to create piping for edges of purse. Create flatter, wider pieces for the straps and pockets. Use pizza cutter and ruler to make clean cuts.

Use hands to mold pieces into a zipper and tassel, then add details with paring knife or pointed tool. Use a sewing tracing wheel to simulate stitching marks.

Glue fondant pieces to cake with a small brush and water. Use a large, dry brush to carefully dust away excess powdered sugar.

Mix gold luster dust with a few drops of extract to make a paint. Using brush, apply color to parts of fondant that represent buckles, chains, studs, zippers or latches.

Store cake uncovered in refrigerator up to 48 hours before serving. Frosting is best served at room temperature for maximum creaminess. Serves 10 to 14.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “The Chinese Kitchen,” is fascinated by old-fashioned food. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.